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Yes this is pretty standard practice to do multipitching to prevent FF2. |
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Read Will's posts and check out these, too: |
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I use this strategy. Often the belayer unclips the draw after you have 2 pieces in to eliminate the rope drag/belay awkwardness. I took a short fall onto the belay once and it definitely made the fall a lot more pleasant for everyone involved (although my friends hand did get pulled into/cut in the quickdraw... thanks for catching me Tommy!) |
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In a situation where there is hard climbing right off the belay, I have extended myself (the belayer) about 8-10 feet below the anchor (assuming it’s possible, safe, not an overhang, etc.) and then my partner clipped the anchor as there first piece. My thoughts was this added some extra rope into the system, sufficiently more than the 30cm or so mentioned in wills article. |
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beach wrote: In a situation where there is hard climbing right off the belay, I have extended myself (the belayer) about 8-10 feet below the anchor (assuming it’s possible, safe, not an overhang, etc.) and then my partner clipped the anchor as there first piece. My thoughts was this added some extra rope into the system, sufficiently more than the 30cm or so mentioned in wills article. Works well. Also works when the gear for the anchor is above, but the good stance is several feet below. |
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beach wrote: In a situation where there is hard climbing right off the belay, I have extended myself (the belayer) about 8-10 feet below the anchor (assuming it’s possible, safe, not an overhang, etc.) and then my partner clipped the anchor as there first piece. My thoughts was this added some extra rope into the system, sufficiently more than the 30cm or so mentioned in wills article. I think like Leo Houlding talked about using this technique on the Prophet. I have done it a little once or twice. |
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beach wrote: In a situation where there is hard climbing right off the belay, I have extended myself (the belayer) about 8-10 feet below the anchor (assuming it’s possible, safe, not an overhang, etc.) and then my partner clipped the anchor as there first piece. My thoughts was this added some extra rope into the system, sufficiently more than the 30cm or so mentioned in wills article. What is the process you use for this technique? Lower belayer then clove hitch? Long tether? |
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Dr Strangelove wrote: I tie a munter on the anchor where I would normally clove and then lower myself and then clove to my belay loop to close the system, eats some rope but works well. Or I just tie a long clove if it’s on a slab and I can just hand over hand to the end of it. |
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Beach’s recommendation is a good one. You can also just have the follower stop at the last piece on the previous pitch and belay from there with the anchor clipped as the first piece. Saves the belayer from having to lower back down. I’ve done this on a few sketchy alpine anchors (Not sure you can even call a single beak an anchor though...) |
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Another way to deal with this is the chariot belay talked about by David Coley here. Basically the leader of the previous pitch places the jesus piece for next pitch so that the leader of the next pitch is on a top rope until they get to the jesus piece and can't FF2. |
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"The benefit of not taking a factor 2 isn't in terms of force because it's going to be as bad or worse on the anchor with the redirect." |
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coppolillo wrote:The direct belay accomplishes a few things---no belayer displacement, so he's less likely to lose control. In ENSA testing, the direct belay with a Munter gave the softest catch of any belay (including a belayer jumping off the ground)...worth considering. Using a Munter with the direct belay means as the climber falls past the belay, the Munter orients itself in the ideal braking position, too. The fact about this test result that often so conveniently gets left out is that they let rope slip through the munter in that test but didn't do that in any of the other tests. I guarantee you if they had tested a munter on the harness with the same rope slip then that would have been lower force. |
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The Munter, on a direct belay, rotates into its "non-ideal" braking position, which results in slippage...and as you rightly point out, greatly reduces impact forces on the top piece....great! I'm not sure they intentionally did this; it's a result of the system---unless you know more about how they conducted the tests. Who knows how a Munter on the waist would compare, especially if the brake strand is oriented in its ideal position? The surprising thing was that the direct-belay Munter was lower than a dude jumping and giving his best "soft catch"....totally surprised me. |
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coppolillo wrote: The Munter, on a direct belay, rotates into its "non-ideal" braking position, which results in slippage...and as you rightly point out, greatly reduces impact forces on the top piece....great! I'm not sure they intentionally did this; it's a result of the system---unless you know more about how they conducted the tests. Who knows how a Munter on the waist would compare, especially if the brake strand is oriented in its ideal position? The surprising thing was that the direct-belay Munter was lower than a dude jumping and giving his best "soft catch"....totally surprised me. No it's more than just the hitch flipping, they purposefully some rope slide through their hands and through the munter to give a softer catch. I've been told that this was a somewhat common practice way back in the day, but most climbers today don't learn how to do that. That's why the forces are so low. Same reason why we see higher forces with a grigri than with an ATC |
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eli poss wrote: I imagine it's a bit more challenging to give a dynamic (rope slipping) catch when you're getting lifted and slammed into the wall i.e. with the Munter on the belayer's harness in those tests. |
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Where’d you get the info that they intentionally let rope slip thru the Munter? |
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eli poss wrote: Another way to deal with this is the chariot belay talked about by David Coley here. Basically the leader of the previous pitch places the jesus piece for next pitch so that the leader of the next pitch is on a top rope until they get to the jesus piece and can't FF2. A lot on that link to absorb - thanks for that. Regarding the “jesus piece”: yup, you can basically build your anchor, continue to lead up to the next piece, then down climb or lower back to the anchor before swapping belayers. If you backclip the piece, when your follower leads thru it will no longer be backclipped ;) |
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coppolillo wrote: With all due respect, it is not a 2:1...a redirect provides no mechanical advantage. You are correct that the force on that piece of the anchor is doubled, but that is not what the '2:1' nomenclature traditionally means. Semantics, I know...carry on. |
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for factor 2 is to fall as twice as far as there is rope out in the system. you reduce the fall factor by getting more rope in the system. If you can get the belayer extended a below the master point a good waysand clip the rope thru the master point, that works well. If you end up with the belayer in a spot so that if the leader fell, he'd be arrested next to the belayer, you're at FF1. Anything where the leader stays above the belayer is great. If there's nothing to hit, but for some reason you can't extend the belay, even just adding a bunch of slack reduces the fall factor, the more rope you give, the FF approaches 1. Probably a scary ride though. |