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Sport climber: need help with cam placements

Original Post
Gerrit Verbeek · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Hey guys, after sport climbing my whole life I'm ready to give trad a shot, but my cam placements just feel so finicky. Can someone point out what I'm doing wrong?

Also what's with huge cams like #3's? I've never seen a bolt that big! They can't even fit in the rap rings...

Gerrit Verbeek · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I'm super good at placing passive pro though! And I can see why cams were so revolutionary, placing them is so much quicker when you don't have to feed a wire through the hanger.

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10
  
Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190
Gerrit Verbeek wrote: Hey guys, after sport climbing my whole life I'm ready to give trad a shot, but my cam placements just feel so finicky. Can someone point out what I'm doing wrong?

Also what's with huge cams like #3's? I've never seen a bolt that big! They can't even fit in the rap rings...

The big cams are mainly used for those German-style ring bolt anchors. Some of the old ones even require Valley Giants, but those are pretty rare.

Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276

Thanks so much! I've been hoping to try my hand at trad, and these pictures answer a lot of my questions. You're an inspiration!

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194
Gerrit Verbeek wrote: Hey guys, after sport climbing my whole life I'm ready to give trad a shot, but my cam placements just feel so finicky. Can someone point out what I'm doing wrong?

Also what's with huge cams like #3's? I've never seen a bolt that big! They can't even fit in the rap rings...

You have to use a double axle cam in placement like this.  The single axle won't hold you in a fall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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