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Family climbing near Salt Lake City

Original Post
Uri Shapira · · Kibbutz HaHotrim Israel · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Hi there Salt Lake City climbing community. We are a climbing family traveling with a RV and plan on spending 3 days or so sport climbing in the Salt Lake City area. I am looking for advice as to which crags to choose and any info will be much appreciated. Here are some things about us to consider:
1) Easy approach (real easy) as we are traveling with kids and cary a baby.
2) Base of crag needs to be safe and kids friendly.
3) RV needs to be parked somewhere (so small pullouts are a no go).
4) We only do sport climbing so it needs to be a fully bolted crag. As for grades, ideally we would love some 10's and 11's and maybe sub-10 for the kids.

Is American Fork Canyon the right place for us? If so, which crags there fit the above description?

If you wanna join us we would love that! Feel free to call or text me: Uri: 267 616 4812

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

BCC- dogwood crag or the slips for minimal approach time. I'd consider stopping in at IME as well  and asking one of the fine fellows for advice.

Snow Flake · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

You, my friend, are climbing at Dogwood. That crag is made for this type of situation.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Uri Shapira wrote: Hi there Salt Lake City climbing community. We are a climbing family traveling with a RV and plan on spending 3 days or so sport climbing in the Salt Lake City area. I am looking for advice as to which crags to choose and any info will be much appreciated. Here are some things about us to consider:
1) Easy approach (real easy) as we are traveling with kids and cary a baby.
How do you feel about stream/small creek crossings?

2) Base of crag needs to be safe and kids friendly.
AF is chossy above the climbs. I've had mountain goats knock rocks off onto us. Also, some crags have steep loose approaches and distinctly non-flat base areas. Choose carefully.

3) RV needs to be parked somewhere (so small pullouts are a no go).
How big is your RV? One of those 25' behemoths or 5th-wheel trailers will be rather problematic.

Also, unfortunately we have a rather serious problem with vehicle break-ins in the canyons. Leave NOTHING OF VALUE in the car or anythin VISIBLE that might appear to be of value - the tweaker looking through the windows doesn't know that the purse in the back seat is empty.
Uri Shapira · · Kibbutz HaHotrim Israel · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks for the answers. From looking at Dogwood at BCC on mountainproject it seems that there is not much for us to do there in the 10-11 sport range. I see what you mean about it being suited for kids but I actually wanna climb myself quite a bit.

I understand that AF has some choosy crags but are all of them like that? Specifically, what about Membrane or Division?

To answer questions asked above:
We don’t mind crossing a non-extreme stream and we ride a 30 foot motor home.

Thanks!
Uri

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Uri Shapira wrote:I understand that AF has some choosy crags but are all of them like that? Specifically, what about Membrane or Division?
Those crags themselves aren't particularly chossy, but there is a lot of loose stuff above them. Division is probably your best bet.
We don’t mind crossing a non-extreme stream
Water flow is very low at this time of year and we've had an exceptionally dry summer, so no extreme issues on that count.
 and we ride a 30 foot motor home.
That will be a bit of an issue.You're going to be using space for 3-4 cars, and the canyon roads are narrow. Expect dirty looks and horns.
Snow Flake · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

If you get to Red Rock crag in Draper pretty early you can park that vehicle before the mountain bikers and climbers show up. Approach isn't nothing, but it's a good trail and only a five min walk. There are a few climbs above 5.10, and there are benches and such in the belay area.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Josh B wrote: If you get to Red Rock crag in Draper pretty early you can park that vehicle before the mountain bikers and climbers show up. Approach isn't nothing, but it's a good trail and only a five min walk. There are a few climbs above 5.10, and there are benches and such in the belay area.

The routes are 40'-50' max and out of 15, there's a 10a, 10b, and 11a - all pretty much one-move cruxes. IMO, the Division Wall in AF is still one of the better options for the OP.

OP: is your RV a trailer or a class-A? If it's a trailer, maybe you could drop it somewhere? There is a campground in AF at the Division Wall area. Dunno if it can accommodate a 30' RV though.
Uri Shapira · · Kibbutz HaHotrim Israel · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks guys! After reading your advice and conversing with IME we decided to camp at little mill (they have some sites for 30 foot rv’s, and climb at Dovision and maybe Hard Rock.

If you wanna join, we should be there Mon to Wed

Thanks again!
Uri

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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