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Grand Traverse

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 177

Don’t forget Alex Lowe. He did it in around 9 hours I believe.

j c sanders · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

The first successful traverse (Steck, Long, Evans: 1963), though South to North, was in 21 hours.

Adam J. Clark · · Mill Creek, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 110

Just remembered a friend's recent instagram post on this, some of the videos are pretty cool.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmpQ8LID0Xf/?taken-by=cfirer

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

I agree there's likely at least 100 people. For the sake of keeping the list going:

1. Rolando Garibotti
2. Nick Elson (FKT)
3. Kyle Dempster
4. Alex Lowe
5. Gee Dub
6. Derek DeBruin
7. Charlie Firer
8. Herman Watson
9. Allen Steck (FA, S to N)
10. Dick Long (FA, S to N)
11. John Evans (FA, S to N)
12. Brian Harder
13. Ben Kiessel
14. Matt (Ben's partner)
15. Mark Smiley
16. Janelle Smiley
17. Jack Tackle
18. Peter Croft
19. Kim Csizmazia
20. Julia Niles
21. Dave Anderson
22. Jimmy Chin
23. Stephen Koch
24. Bruce Miller
25. Alan Lester
26. Tom Hargis
27. Inge Perkins
28. Jared Campbell
29. Jock Glidden
30. Hayden Kennedy

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039
Ty Falk wrote:But who knows there could be 100 people in the Tetons that are not spraying and just sending that have done it.
This seems quite plausible. It's a different breed in the Tetons.

You just start to go down a rabbit hole when you bring a rope then a small rack then a harness and the weight starts to add up quick and can slow you down.
Yes, though if you're only really using the rope for raps, 40m of <=8mm, a belay device, and a glacier harness is still light. But it does take discipline.

I guess I didn't mean you need to run everything but I doubt many people who have done it under 24 hours were casually walking up into Garnet canyon or walking from the saddle of the south onward.
Truth. The FKT was definitely running. But I prefer to "move with purpose." Definitely can't spend too much time at transitions or not moving.

It worries me in many places around the park to not filter the water.  

Me, too. There are places I'll drink untreated, but anything remotely high traffic in the Tetons isn't one of them.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

^^^ it wouldn't surprise me if Brian had.  Probably the hardest part would be be figured out who did it in the 90's and early 2000's. Maybe Renny knows? There's certainly a bunch of people around Jackson who may have and don't talk about it (or much of anything impressive they do).  The ranger at the lower saddle commented the Cathedral Traverse is becoming a trade route but he speculated pretty few people have done the full thing in a day.
Microspikes and no axe worked fine for us but there's a good bit of exposure crossing over the Koven haha. That back side looks like it has great ski runs.

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

^Ya lots of good skiing around there. Off the side of the east prong is the Tallboy Couloir into cascade canyon. Super high quality.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

I somehow had not noticed the 1963 team did it in under a day. Damn! Also Derek, as sad as it  makes me to type it we didn't summit Nez Perce so our names need to be subtracted from that list. We also did a pretty undercover job of hijacking this thread haha.  Nic if you go try it good luck, hope we've helped and let us know how it goes! Since it snowed up there the other week I gotta say I'm already looking forward to early season ice hunting.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067
Derek DeBruin wrote: I agree there's likely at least 100 people. For the sake of keeping the list going:

1. Rolando Garibotti
2. Nick Elson (FKT)
3. Kyle Dempster
4. Alex Lowe
5. Gee Dub
6. Jeremy Bauman
7. Derek DeBruin
8. Charlie Firer
9. Herman Watson
10. Allen Steck (FA, S to N)
11. Dick Long (FA, S to N)
12. John Evans (FA, S to N)
13. Brian Harder
I just want to add that we did not do it in a day -- above I was referring to doing the traverse. Strike my name from the list!
Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Got it--I've done some editing. There's certainly more than 12 people who've done it in a day, right? Anybody have more names?

Also, I know this is serious thread drift at this point, but maybe we just go with it...? Sorry, Nic.

Ben Kiessel · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 5,248

Nic,  I think the difficulty of the route finding gets blown out of proportion.  If you have a decent head on your shoulders and follow Rolo's directions you'll be fine. Matt and I onsighted the traverse this last August in 17hrs.  I had been to the Tetons one other time 20years earlier at age 13. On that trip I got guided up the exam ridge. Matt had never been to the Tetons.  We didn't run at all. We brought a 60m 7.7mm rope and pitched out the North Ridge and the Grandstand.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

I have a couple- Mark and Janelle Smiley, Jack Tackle, Kim Czismas (I can't ever spell that right), Peter Croft.  There are some more Exum and JHMG guides but I don't have names.  
I also agree somewhat with ^^ comment, it's not like it 's impossible but there are plenty of people who get lost and epic every year.  Fortunately there are places that are easy to bail in a sense so if it takes longer than you think you can just head down. 

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

^I would assume Zahan has. Possibliy Dan Corn, Jeff Witt or maybe Fabby aswell in under 24 hours.

^^ Ya I guess the route finding might get blown out of proportion but there are several places where Rolo's beta is not exactly detailed but overall it is fairly straight forward and for me that was not the crux of the trip. 

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

I would imagine Jimmy Chin has, he skied the Trifecta in like 10 hours but I can't confirm he's done the Traverse. Oh I guess Honnold has too in an illustrious career it probably wasn't that big of a deal. And Ben ^^above.  

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 177

The Smileys did it last year in 12:17.
Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins did it in around 19 hours.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

I kinda figured Jared had, as far as I know the Dorais, Anton Krupicka, and Noah Howell have not. I asked Jack but not Renny, he probably does have a list but it seems that as the light and fast approach becomes more common there are more doing it that way. It occurs to me that the last section 'climbing in winter' of the Ortenburger/Jackson guide mentions that winter routes in the Tetons would become more common , and although there is more fast skiing of big objectives going on it seems that in the last two decades rock 'scrambling' has become more common among the fit, better than average climber.  I think the amount of people on our GTIAD list as opposed to those who have done it in winter (or the North face of the Grand, or most winter climbs) bears witness to that. Once Hayden and Inge are added it's sobering to note how many are no longer with us, and none so far from rock climbing. 

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I talked to Brian Harder today. He has soloed it in a day twice. The first time was 15:45 and the second was 11:10. He mentioned that Kim Czismazia has done it in a day as well. He thought that Mark Newcomb and Hans Johnstone possibly have as well but was not certain. 

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

So a couple years ago I had intended to do it and was doing great...until we ran into a party of 4 with packs and tents and all that. Being the polite guiding type we waited...and waited...for FOUR HOURS. At which point we knew we'd have to bail on the traverse. So my advice is if they're prepared to be out overnight then let them play that game but take no prisoners. I didn't find the route finding that hard. Hadn't ever climbed Teewinot and did it entirely in the dark. Can't speak to the second half...grr. Approach shoes are your friend. 

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

Forgot to add Jock Glidden to the for sure list, Hans and Mark I assume have and maybe Greg Collins.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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