BD vs Metolius Hexes

Ryan Swanson wrote:

Sounds like you need a second set.  I'm on the verge myself of getting more.

I refuse to buy more until they go for 50% off at the mountain shop in Yose. I could always use an extra nut though.

Ryan Swanson wrote:

DMM offsets.  They make me moister than an oyster

They are the ticket in the Needles of SD. Tons of weird flaring cracks and crystal lined pods.

I see all these posts about how great the Torque nuts are and wonder why I'm unhappy with mine. And they are so loud when they clink! Are the BD hexes the same way?

If I'm on sandstone, I see the round hexes being better for the bulgeous flaring crack features, but Devil's lake quartzite (most popular trad spot around me) is super blocky. Like Sandstone, but rendered on a Playstation 1

Do not buy Hexes unless you're purely into the novelty. They are a big fat waste of money, space, weight, and time (getting them out). Go modern pro for sho.

Mitch Friedeman wrote: Do not buy Hexes unless you're purely into the novelty. They are a big fat waste of money, space, weight, and time (getting them out). Go modern pro for sho.

I agree with Mitch, placing hexes on lead is old-school, but mostly unnecessary nowadays. I use hexes almost exclusively for TR anchors, they excel at that. Tourists & thieves are much less likely to fuck with them than they are with cams.

 For leading (and the second) cams are almost always easier to place and remove.

Mitch Friedeman wrote: Do not buy Hexes unless you're purely into the novelty. They are a big fat waste of money, space, weight, and time (getting them out). Go modern pro for sho.

Agree. Go for cams than take DMM Torque if you need more stuff. As I said in my review https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112939616/totem-cams-black-to-orange-preorder-kailas-nuco-totem-basic-and-kailas-emery-nut?page=4

It's good for some specific application. They are better than cams on wet and icy crack or to wrap the sling around a tree. They are goo on alpine and mixte terrain. Otherwise, I recommend you to buy cams.

Marc-Olivier - thanks for the full write-up in the other linked post about gear, it's very informative.

Full Disclaimer: I have a crap ton of cams, more than 2 sets and triples of some sizes. I look at hexes, tricams, and other gear options for those climbs that just seem to eat up the same of a piece.

I also bumped this thread, because I rarely use my Torque nuts and am wondering if I should pawn them off but apparently people swear by them. Just curious how they stand up to other Hexes, not cams

Edit: I also ice climb and may start some mixed routes this season, possible hex application there

Mikeyy Blisz wrote:
I also bumped this thread, because I rarely use my Torque nuts and am wondering if I should pawn them off but apparently people swear by them. Just curious how they stand up to other Hexes, not cams

For me, DMM Torque is better than competitor mostly because of the extended sling. It makes a very versatile product that could be used as a regular sling (rape a tree or a horn, extended your draw, build an anchor, or simply as a rock protection. No other rock protection is versatile like the DMM Torque. It does not mean I will use only this piece of gear but it wort to have a set. On a long climb, you exchange your extra sling with the Torque, give you best of both worlds.

+1 to versatile alternate uses on the DMM hexes.  While I wouldn't use one to replace my prusik for rappel, they do have a nice benefit of working well as a prusik with essentially a handle (say for top belays that get a little desperate for your follower where you want to get a bit more pull for providing tension that you can still easily turn into a 3 to 1 if need be).  I also definitely use them as slings both directly as pro or for extending clips when packing light.  They also make good hammers for nut tools for particularly jammed nuts. Generally I find them a really nice and useful part of my alpine/multi pitch rack (and still often make the cut when cragging too)

Also of course as always they are good for stretching out the number of pieces you have at a size for cheap. I definitely have biases from learning on hexes/nuts, but in many areas they are super useful (and dare I say it there are places where hexes can place more quickly and confidently than cams)

Personally I’m a fan of the BD hexes, anytime I’ve had those large placement that I could use a cam for I’ve usually opted to use the hex in order to save for the rest of the pitch. I haven’t used the Metolius or DMM because I’ve had no need to look elsewhere. BD hexes have worked just fine for me. 

What’s a hex?

Mikeyy Blisz wrote:Full Disclaimer: I have a crap ton of cams, more than 2 sets and triples of some sizes. 

​*snicker* that’s cute. 

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote: For me, DMM Torque is better than competitor mostly because of the extended sling. It makes a very versatile product that could be used as a regular sling (rape a tree or a horn, extended your draw, build an anchor, or simply as a rock protection. No other rock protection is versatile like the DMM Torque. It does not mean I will use only this piece of gear but it wort to have a set. On a long climb, you exchange your extra sling with the Torque, give you best of both worlds.

So your favorite aspect of a piece of pro is the sling it’s attached to?  You know they sell those separately, right? ;)

Can’t help but snicker picturing all of these hexes hanging around free attached to things that are actually serving a purpose.  I guess if you used the hex sling on your anchor you could ring the bell every time you finished your bold TR ascents...

kevin deweese wrote: *snicker* that’s cute.

I'm not trying to show off. I am simply stating "I know.. yes.. get cams, save money for cams.." as if it hadn't crossed anyone's mind considering hexes for certain climbs

Your post contributes nothing to the discussion, thank you kind troll. I wonder if you're just as fun in person when you're not hiding behind the internet

Ted Pinson wrote:I guess if you used the hex sling on your anchor you could ring the bell every time you finished your bold TR ascents...

Genius!!   

Mikeyy Blisz wrote: I'm not trying to show off. I am simply stating "I know.. yes.. get cams, save money for cams.." as if it hadn't crossed anyone's mind considering hexes for certain climbs

Your post contributes nothing to the discussion, thank you kind troll. I wonder if you're just as fun in person when you're not hiding behind the internet

Interesting that your response neglects to mention your use of the phrase “crap ton” which was obviously what the snickering from the peanut gallery was about.
And yes, I am a troll. Duh. 

Hexes rule, fuck all of you!

mountainproject.com/forum/t…

The vast majority of climbers have given up on hexes, in most cases, I suspect, without ever having tried them.  For alpine routes, a set of hexes and a set of cams is a very plausible alternative to a double set of cams.  Just don't try to use such a rack at Indian Creek.

I've used BD hexes and hexentrics and WC Curve Hexes.  Haven't used Metolius Curve Hexes.  They look similar to DMM Torque nuts, but the DMM's have a nice sling instead of wire cable, and I think the sling works better with such gear, so I'd go for the Torque nuts if I was going to get any hexes.  See https://vimeo.com/40287948 for some DMM propaganda.

rgold wrote: The vast majority of climbers have given up on hexes, in most cases, I suspect, without ever having tried them.  For alpine routes, a set of hexes and a set of cams is a very plausible alternative to a double set of cams.  Just don't try to use such a rack at Indian Creek.

I've used BD hexes and hexentrics and WC Curve Hexes.  Haven't used Metolius Curve Hexes.  They look similar to DMM Torque nuts, but the DMM's have a nice sling instead of wire cable, and I think the sling works better with such gear, so I'd go for the Torque nuts if I was going to get any hexes.  See https://vimeo.com/40287948 for some DMM propaganda.

I have a set of metolius curves that were passed down to me when I started climbing, also have a set of the DMM torque nuts. The DMMs place much easier and are far more secure than the metolius units. The sling vs. wire as you mention is much nicer. The problem I see with metolius is in the geometry though, all the sides are curved. 

If you look at the DMM or WC you see one side has a sharper point, this allows them to press tight to a crystal or protrusion and actually cam the more curved surface securely. With metolius you have curves on every side and they just don't cam worth a damn, to me at least they are limited to being a fully passive piece. I haven't brought the metolius units out of the closet in 3 years now.

I would use the DMMs more often for alpine, but honestly partners who never took the time bitch about it. They get to carry the extra weight in doubles of #2 and #3 that I don't need :)