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Mountaineering Destinations (Beginners)
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I know this topic has been done to the death, but I’m looking for some rather specific advice. I wanted to know if any good beginner mountaineering destinations with a variety of alpine routes. I have a decent foundation in rock climbing now (lead trad 5.10), but absolutely no experience in ice or snow. |
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Don't spend all that in one place! Check out the North Cascades, Washington (State). Anywhere else in the lower 48 isn't really true alpine terrain. |
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How long do you have, and what time of year? These are both important considerations. |
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Canadian Rockies. |
JCM wrote: How long do you have, and what time of year? These are both important considerations. I’m taking a year off of school, so I’m quitting my Maryland job in September and then have until next September. So I can really go any time. I was thinking easy(ish) approaches might be better so if I need to bail on a climb it’s easier, plus I’m assuming it’d be cheaper. Been up in the Alaska range, but that was for work doing some whitewater stuff. I was looking at Charmonix, mostly because there are always a lot of other climbers looking for partners. |
O’Shay Kramer wrote: If you can afford Chamonix, you must go to Chamonix. Period. |
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Definitely don't blow it all on one trip, you can do a lot with that much $$. |
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Canada - the Rockies and the Bugs - with the current exchange rate, could go pretty far in terms of living and expenses. The close access a lot of easy, moderate, and difficult glaciated alpine routes is hard to surpass - there's not Cham style gondola to the top though. |
s.price wrote: Well...what route? |
Eliot Augusto wrote: Same, which route? Sounds fun |
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Also you could gain quite a few skills just taking a week with a partner and going around the gannet/dinwoody cirque in the wind river range for cheap if you plan to end up in colorado, but with an opportunity like yours I would suggest Canada or the cascades, Cham if you can, but I cannot yet attest first-hand to that. |
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That sounds like a blast! |
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Many cool places you could go. If the ultimate goal is technical alpine climbing, you certainly need to spend plenty of time in the mountains in general. But you'll also need lots of time cranking at the crag--that's where you build the technique and fitness to climb hard in the mountains. A big alpine route days from the car with dubious pro isn't the best place to learn how to climb hard ice or mixed. I'd be sure to factor that in. |
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Briggs - Nothing wrong this advice, but obviously it's not for everybody. I can't blame someone for feeling like a single guided 2-4 week trip (or maybe a couple 1-2 week trips) is a good use of their money, as opposed to stretching it into months by doing things more in-line with the 'dirtbag' mantra. |
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I really screwed up going into engineering. There's not enough time off to do fun stuff like this :( |
Mark Ra wrote: Definitely don't blow it all on one trip, you can do a lot with that much $$. Wow! This is awesome. This is exactly the advice I was looking for. Some of my long term goals would be ascents of Cerro Torre, Moose's Tooth, and some ascents in the Karakoram. More interested in steep mixed climbing in alpine terrain than brutal uphill slogs (still want to do some of that too though). I think I'm going to wait until November, save more money, take an AIARE 1 course (already got WFR), and then head up to the Adirondack's to climb with a real life hardman haha. That way I can figure out what kind of gear I'll need before I buy any ice climbing/mountaineering equipment without having any ice experience whatsoever.I think the AIARE 1 recommendation was some really key advice. Being safe in the mountains is probably the most important thing for me, and while everyone else had great post, they seemed to ignore the fact I had no experience in snow/ice. The stoke is high and so is the fitness level! More training never hurt so I will definitely look into some of their fitness plans. |
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Eurocentric (obviiously) but with some good advice. https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/skills/ten_top_tips_for_your_first_alpine_adventure-6372 |
O’Shay Kramer wrote: Here's my $.02 after being in this for 20 years and not accomplishing near what I'd hoped. Many of the keys to being an alpine climber are in the far less glamorous and more basic sides of climbing than people seem to admit. Learning to move confidently, efficiently, and quickly on glaciers, 2nd and 3rd class terrain, steep snow and very mellow ice/neve are much more often the keys to success than being able to climb M9. The steep mixed climbing in alpine terrain generally doesn't go well unless you've done enough "steep uphill slogs." People with technical climbing backgrounds who lack mountaineering experience frequently make derisive statements about standard routes, but then are often the first to crumble in big mountains on the standard routes. The fitness and experience for big alpine objectives tends come from standard routes.My suggestion for a path to you would be something like this: 1. Take a glacier travel and general mountaineering course. The PNW is great for this, or you can blow some of that hard earned cash and go to Europe but you'll learn pretty much the same thing. For what it's worth, I think learning NA style mountaineering lends itself a bit better to go to AK and the bigger ranges around the world that you desire. Anyone can jump off a tram and onto a glacier but immediate access doesn't generate the toughness and patience necessary to get in position for large remote climbs. 2. Do some alpine rock climbing. You seemingly already have the traditional climbing skills and rock experience. Take those rock skills and combine them with backpacking and "slogging" skills to go somewhere remote and climb a rock route within your ability. The Sierras, Tetons, Wind Rivers, or even the Bugaboos will allow you to test if you really want to do this without overly investing in the snow/ice gear and experience. It's not for everyone and many figure that out after dumping a lot of resources. 3. Learn to climb snow and ice. Technical snow climbing is part of the deal in alpinism and its way underrated. Snow doesn't protect easily, can be exhausting to climb, and can be quite scary. It's easier to get access to ice climbing than snow climbing and ice climbing comes pretty naturally if you're already a decent rock climber. 4. Combine these skills on established but easier alpine objectives. Don't go jumping straight for the Alaska range like I did. It will humble and potentially scare you into thinking that this might not be for you. Chamonix has plentiful route options once you're at this stage. The Cascades really do have a lot to offer once you're here and they get overlooked by American climbers who don't live there. |
Matt S. wrote: I really screwed up going into engineering. There's not enough time off to do fun stuff like this :( but OTOH, you can afford all the coolest gear!.... |
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Hello all, I am back again in need of some gear advice! Headed to the pacific NW in the spring and need some boot recommendations. I was looking at the Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX and La Sportiva Nepal Evo. Pretty solid all around boots from my research, but first hand experience would be appreciated. I’ll primarily be stomping around the cascades. Got an AIARE 1 course coming up as well. Any recommendations are appreciated for other shoes as well! |
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Fit is the most important thing first and foremost. I have the mont blanc pros and love them. Great on long approaches yet stiff enough for water ice. I've used them in the cascades in the summer and just got back from an ice trip in Chamonix with them. They're not too warm for summer in the cascades in my opinion. |
