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Near Miss on Cathedral Peak

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
rafael wrote:

that would explain why he is wearing those gloves also

I believe he is trying to keep his hands clean. Its dirty outside.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
T Roper wrote:

I believe he is trying to keep his hands clean. Its dirty outside.

I have an old flame who used to be in the band of a certain famous singer who had some incidents involving PCP. The way the band knew if said singer was dusted or not was that when he was high on PCP he always wore gloves on stage. I can't get that out of my mind when seeing these videos. It would explain the erratic climbing and grandiose behavior.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
SinRopa wrote:

Was that a personal thing, or is it a widespread PCP specific practice?

Thankfully my own experience with people on PCP is limited enough that I don't know...

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
AndrewArroz wrote:

I have an old flame who used to be in the band of a certain famous singer who had some incidents involving PCP. The way the band knew if said singer was dusted or not was that when he was high on PCP he always wore gloves on stage. I can't get that out of my mind when seeing these videos. It would explain the erratic climbing and grandiose behavior.

OK, hes keeping his hands clean for the baby.

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

The Tommy Wiseau of rock climbing.

He'll be endearing to the next generation of hipster sport climbers.

butters · · Mammoth Lakes, Ca · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 200

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obhTD42JJK0  i believe this is the guy. funny timing as i watched his videos based on a comment posted by other MP users earlier today saying how sketchy he was soloing and then a few hours later stumble upon this post! classic. watch out for Jerrys' in the mountains.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
butters wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obhTD42JJK0  i believe this is the guy. funny timing as i watched his videos based on a comment posted by other MP users earlier today saying how sketchy he was soloing and then a few hours later stumble upon this post! classic. watch out for Jerrys' in the mountains.

We finally get to see his real hands at the last few seconds paddling a kayak across Lake Mary. So he actually has hands.

Shaun Gregory · · Front range · Joined May 2016 · Points: 285

The real question is how the hell did this guy get 88 people to subscribe to his channel on youtube?

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115
Sean Onasch wrote:

The real question is how the hell did this guy get 88 people to subscribe to his channel on youtube?

It's little kids. 

I made a horror comedy video once that scarred a bunch of little kids for life. Never even considered that little kids (like 5 year olds) browse YouTube. 

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Sean Onasch wrote:

The real question is how the hell did this guy get 88 people to subscribe to his channel on youtube?

he is a famous climber thats how- http://www.popularmechanics.com/adventure/outdoors/a24555/free-climb-video/

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35
Rob Gordon wrote:

It's little kids. 

I made a horror comedy video once that scarred a bunch of little kids for life. Never even considered that little kids (like 5 year olds) browse YouTube. 

considering Arroz's hypotheses about the contents of the webbing tagged bag this post gets real dark

Hamish Hamish · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15
A-K wrote:

Damn i just read through all 10 pages and this jackass never even had the courtesy to make an appearance. 

But he could...

https://www.mountainproject.com/user/200045354/mikhail-simkin/community
Buster B · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 105
Jeff G. calls it like he sees it...
BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240
Teddy B wrote:
Jeff G. calls it like he sees it...

Post the link to that thread so we can see the madness!! 

Hamish Hamish · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15
BrokenChairs BrettC wrote:

Post the link to that thread so we can see the madness!! 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106191526/north-arete#Comment-113450069

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Any one know what happened to the OP?  Trying to share with a friend and I can't find that version of this lovely story.  Thanks

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Brian Banta wrote:Not sure if this is the correct forum, (and Admins feel free to move it) but as a new and developing trad climber, this is forum I use most.  I witnessed a very disturbing situation this weekend that had me asking lots of questions about our responsibility as climbers to ourselves and other climbers.  If other parties on the route that day 9/16 can offer additional information please do.
To make a long story short... I watched a free soloist nearly fall to his death on the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral peak.  The climber was approximately 20' above the "alcove" just below the chimney pitch (I was below the climber on lead and had just placed my first piece).  The soloist seemed to be having trouble making the move, either a step around a bulge, or directly over it, either move appeared to be 5.6. (At this point I moved out from directly below the climber and place a second bomber piece and clove hitched into it.) He removed his pack and then attempted to go over the bulge, and was really struggling, and called to climbers above to assist.  The climbers above were able to throw down a section of rope, which the soloist was able to grab just as he slipped off the rock.  The climber fell several feet due to rope stretch while continuing to hold on the rope, and came to rest in a semi-secure position. Both myself and the party above attempted to convince the climber to either tie the rope around themselves or somehow improvise a harness. The climber did not respond to these suggestions. After a few moments the climber was able to continue upward while holding the rope, make the step around, and head up to the climber above.
I was able to lead the remaining short way up to the Chimney pitch and met up again with the soloist and the party that helped him.  I was very surprised to hear that the Soloist had decided to continue climbing the rest of the route without any protection.  At this point my partner and I decided that we would rather descend than continue to the summit.
In the moment and in the hours since I have been asking myself many questions about this situation.  What (if any) responsibility do we have as climbers to help other climbers that are ill prepared?  Should I have just called YOSAR?  Should I have attempted to communicate more with the climber?  Should I have shown him how to tie a swami belt (out of the nearly 40' of webbing he had)?  Offered to help him descend? What responsibility (if any) did he have to the other climbers on the mountain with him?  It was clear that he put several other climbers at risk.
(I don't think it useful to criticize free soloing in general in this discussion as I saw several other free soloist that day that seemed very competent and well informed on the route.)
-Brian
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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