Best finger cracks in the Wasatch?
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Hey guys, I’m looking for the best finger cracks in the Wasatch, grades 5.8 - 5.10. Thanks! |
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Coffin Crack |
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Coffin, Sasquatch, Green Adjective, Plumb Line, Boomerang, Crack in the Woods |
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Tyler N wrote: Coffin, Sasquatch, Green Adjective, Plumb Line, Boomerang, Crack in the Woods This is actually all of the Wasatch finger cracks in the 5.8-5.10 range. |
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You should throw Coyne Crack on your list. Its a beautiful albeit short finger crack and goes at 11d but felt about as hard as Sasquatch to me. Others might disagree but I felt like it was a handbag. |
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Flying Dutchman |
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A bit south of you, but great temp.s at 10,400 ft. and short approaches. |
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Call Me Slim |
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Coyne Crack, Stump the Stars, Pudgy Gumbies, S Crack. |
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ddriver wrote: Call Me Slim Call me slim is excellent. Social engineering next door also has a fun section of fingers albeit a bit short. Phenomenal BCC routes at your grade range.. Sin Nombre, high dive, last pitch penta pitch |
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Sasquatch is the best one, it can be either really easy or really hard depending on if your fingers fit into the crack. It's a burly 5.9+. |
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Unfortunately there is only one good finger crack in that whole butt seam Hell hole. The good thing is it's also one of the best around. Forget the rest and do the best. |
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Sacrifice (5.10) at the bottom of Westwind, right by the start of the Thumb Gully has some of the best fingers in the Wasatch. Expecially now that it's clean again.
El Chollo (5.10) has excellent fingers. Keel Haul, (5.9) high on the East Gate. Side Kick (5.8)has sections of fingers. Blue Collar Crack (5.9) and the .9 that finishes left also has sections of fingers that are cool. 3 Amigos (5.9)has great fingers and makes you get on your feet. The middle of Bongeater has great fingerlocks. Don't forget to finish the right side of the Coffin for extended fingers. Boing has great fingers but that isn't the crux part. BCC is problematic in that many times you'll either have finger locks to place a piece of gear OR you're holding onto a jug while you place a finger-sized piece. That doesn't often equate to finger crack climbing. HOWEVER, Sin Nombre might be the best in the canyon for doing both at the same time, if that makes any sense. I also like climbs like Hibatchi Time and Salmonella because finding the finger locks are what keep them at 5.9. You could pretty much say the same thing for Weinie Roast and The Raw and the Cooked. |
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C Archibolt wrote: False |
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Ginseng has a fun section of perfect locks. |
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Nitro |
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I'm surprised that Sticky Fingers (10d) hasn't been mentioned...great route. |
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There’s some good spots for fingers on Stiffler’s Mom . . . |