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Belay Devices

Original Post
Connor Erickson · · Brandon, SD · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 17

What are your guys’ favorite belay devices and why?

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Hip belay. You're never without your 'device'.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
that guy named seb wrote: The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Bottle opener? Bear repellent? 

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

Grigri for most belays.  Because it adds  another layer of safety when used properly.
BD Guide ATC, when using someone else's old fuzzy rope that locks the grigri up at inopportune times, or when belaying two people up when multi-pitching.
Munter hitch on a locking biner when unforeseen events occur and the previous 2 are not available.

Josh Lowy · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 793

MegaJul.  Assisted brake like the grigri but feeds easier, lighter on the wall, and has 2 slots for rappelling.  Rappelling on the megajul is not the smoothest though.

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,689

I like the new ATC-Pilot. It auto-locks similar to a mega jul.. but it does have its shortcomings, it can only handle one rope, it can not be used for rappel. no top belaying, etc..
I end up carrying a ATC-Guide anyway, but I am one of those that carry a backup anyway, so it works for me. I also don't like the idea of belay devices being over $50..  The money you save can be spent elsewhere. Also consider if the device can help in self rescue.. (and weight...)

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,689

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 457

Assisted - Gri Gri 2
Tube - Pivot - super easy to lower in guide mode and don't have to mess around with redirects

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Sport: Edelrid Jul 2 or any make/model tube device depending on a route (more dangerous routes require tube style device to be able to feed a decent amount of rope thru the device)
Trad: Edelrid Mega Jul or Edelrid Micro Jul (obviously Micro is for doubles/twins), or any make/model tube device
Alpine: Edelrid Micro Jul
Solo: Rock Exotica Soloist

Ultimately any make/model tube style "guide" device is the most versatile choice now days. BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, CAMP Piu 2, CT BE Up, Mammut Wall Alpine, etc, etc, etc.

Aaeia Naess · · Newport, NH · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Sticht plate. Its simplicity, elegance, symmetry and immediate intuitiveness to even non-climbers I've showed it to while explaining climbing has completely won me over. I've never seen another belay device other than a good braced set of hips that can match its attractiveness. 

Lee Payne · · Austin, TX · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 102
Josh Lowy wrote: MegaJul.  Assisted brake like the grigri but feeds easier, lighter on the wall, and has 2 slots for rappelling.  Rappelling on the megajul is not the smoothest though.

Have you tried flipping it around so it doesn't lock up (i.e. the keeper loop facing away from you)? I use it that way with the standard friction hitch backup and it rapps just like an ATC.

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,689
Rue Kennington wrote: Sticht plate. Its simplicity, elegance, symmetry and immediate intuitiveness to even non-climbers I've showed it to while explaining climbing has completely won me over. I've never seen another belay device other than a good braced set of hips that can match its attractiveness. 

The late models had a springy thing attached to keep it from locking down on your carabiners (two opposed in those days). It wasn't quite as element but did the trick. canberraspeleos.org.au/imag…

Still had to carry a figure eight to rappel.  Before sticht plates we used the small loop of the figure eight with a prusik tied to the big loop as a leash.  Before that body belay.. Anyone remember Whillans sit harnesses (made by Troll)?

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

I still like Omega Pacifics SBGII.  Thing can handle fat gym ropes and also has great lock off even in small diameter ropes.  Lots of friction options when on rappel with heavy loads or if canyoneering.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote: The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Great for top rope (be in multi pitch or single pitch) but I will not lead belay with someone on one unless I know they will be hanging alot on a project. They do make it easier to top rope belay and drink beer at the same time though.

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40
Lee Payne wrote:

Have you tried flipping it around so it doesn't lock up (i.e. the keeper loop facing away from you)? I use it that way with the standard friction hitch backup and it rapps just like an ATC.

This is okay until you rap past a belay station, then try ascending a rope. It will lock up every time you take slack. Best way is a full flip. To where the wire is on the opposite side of the belay carabiner. That way it won’t lock either way.

Steve Shen · · Richland, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
PatMas wrote:

This is okay until you rap past a belay station, then try ascending a rope. It will lock up every time you take slack. Best way is a full flip. To where the wire is on the opposite side of the belay carabiner. That way it won’t lock either way.

Interesting, I've never seen or heard of rapping like that with the megajul. With the full flip, do you do it with the thumb-rest on top or below? Am I gunna die if I try it?

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Pete Spri wrote: I still like Omega Pacifics SBGII.  Thing can handle fat gym ropes and also has great lock off even in small diameter ropes.  Lots of friction options when on rappel with heavy loads or if canyoneering.

One of the GREAT things about the Omega Pacific SBGII is that it is the only tube-style belay device on the market that does not jam!

The unlike other tube style belay devices the Omega Pacific SBGII stays a fixed distance from the belay biner.  Therefore is cannot jam since it cannot be pushed up against the belay biner.  The tradeoff is that if you are belaying a hangdogger you probably won't get as much locking off power compared to other tube style belay devices since the belay device isn't pushed up against the belay biner.
C Limenski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15
Steve Shen wrote:

Interesting, I've never seen or heard of rapping like that with the megajul. With the full flip, do you do it with the thumb-rest on top or below? Am I gunna die if I try it?

Can confirm, works great.

Have done dozens of rappels this way, probably more. I like the downwards side to be the one with more rope baring surface. I think that means thumb loop up but I'm not going to go dig out the device and I'm not 100% vertain on a Google images search. It does work both ways.

Edit: staying on topic, the MegaJul is the device I grab most often if it's single pitch or someone will be hanging. I really don't love the guide mode, and the work around is easy, but it's still silly to have to use the device in an atypical orientation to achieve the desired result

No one has mentioned how nice the reverso is. It is SO light! And the guide mode is great. Haven't tried every guide-mode tuber but I do like it a lot
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

GriGri 1 and ATC XP

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Steve Shen wrote:

Interesting, I've never seen or heard of rapping like that with the megajul. With the full flip, do you do it with the thumb-rest on top or below? Am I gunna die if I try it?

I have done it once. I mean Mega Jul rappel in flipped position. For sure I have found myself about 20 feet under the next belay station. Had some, hmmmm, exciting moments. Count this once as twice — the first and the last.

With such a miserable experience I have invested not that much time to learn how to rappel using Micro/Mega Jul in "normal" orientation. Both methods either thumb-pressure or fancy binner lever work just fine with a bit of practice. Everything comes for a price. That autolocking Micro/Mega/all-other-387-kinds-were-recently-released Jul feature requires some training and still it is not that smooth as, e.g., ATC.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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