Bolted multipitch for learning climbers
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I'm looking for a good bolted multipitch, probably around 4 pitches, that would be good for a learning party. My partner and I want to test our skills, but we don't want to hold up other parties with our shit rope management and slow belay changeovers. Any recommendations on less busy routes? We are very comfortable up to 5.11-. We were thinking about trying playin' hooky, but that is surely busy almost every day of the week. The climbing doesn't have to be exceptional, and long approaches are fine. |
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The young and the rackless 5.9 in boulder canyon should fit you well. |
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Since you say you are comfortable up to 11- you might consider Wild Child on the Mission Wall in Clear Creek. It is a fun route and the harder grade reduces the amount of traffic. That being said, I don't think Mission Wall gets enough shade to be pleasant this time of year. |
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People’s Choice at High Wire is good also - good one for practicing rope management when there’s not a good ledge to stack on. One thing with Playin’ Hooky is that there are enough options in the area now so traffic can be spread out a bit - this especially helps for the rappels. I’ve never had issues finding a way to get around a slower party - you can bypass easily without stress for anyone. Most people do it in 2 pitches (combine the 1st 2 pitches of solid gold) on a 70m. If you do decide to pitch it out, separate rap anchors have been added at the first belay to help with congestion. It’s a fun climb, worth doing for multipitch practice - especially since it’s 4 rappels. Don’t let the crowd potential deter you. |
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Do “Black Gold” to the left of “Solid Gold”/“Playing Hooky”. It’s only 5.7 but is a less crowded multi-pitch. |
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There are a couple 2 pitch climbs at Tiers of Zion that are usually empty. |
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There are good routes on Mary's bust. If you want to be in CCC you can just use the search function there are plenty of them. If you do playing hooky it is better as a two pitch climb. |
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Another option for practice is to treat single-pitch climbs like a multi-pitch climb. Leader climbs to the top, sets up the belay, and brings up the second. This is great for learning how to efficiently set up an anchor, pull rope, manage the rope, etc. Just start with climbs where the route ends at a comfortable spot so you aren't too crowded when rapping back down (e.g., a free-hanging anchor would not be good). When I started multi-pitch routes, my partner and I would frequently do this on sport climbing days when we came across a route with a good belay ledge. |
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North Face of Sheeprock, Molly Gulch. Lots of bolts, you won't hold up anyone. Some 3asy peasy ones like Fractured Fairytales, Sticks Stones, Sweet Cigarillo also could help you learn. |
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Jay Eggleston wrote: Do “Black Gold” to the left of “Solid Gold”/“Playing Hooky”. It’s only 5.7 but is a less crowded multi-pitch. Second this. |
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Playing hooky is overrated anyway. If you want to climb slab in a more serene environment, go check out the jungle wall at Devils Head, there's several 3-pitch routes there that all check in below 5.10c. You could also hit up Wipeyur Buttress (across from the jungle wall) for Upperdeck n Spackle, a great 10b jug-haul pitch that you have to approach via one of several 5.9 pitches. There are also a couple longer routes at Sin City (also devil's head) that are supposed to be pretty good, but I think those check in around 5-7 pitches and one of them is 5.11a. |
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Thanks for all the suggestions, definitely have some decent climbs to try out next weekend |
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Mission wall has a lot of options. And there are some easy multi pitches right by dog house in clear creek |
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I asked a dude almost verbatim the same question, and he told me “Royal Flush” in Frisco is a decent route to look into. Liiiittle longer than 4 pitches though. |
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And nobody has mentioned Ra, up by Empire. Training Day, Empire of the Air (you'll have to skip P4 if you did not bring gear) Rohan Face, Etc... Miner's Delight is 11b if you decide you want to push a bit harder. Nearer to Thee is 11b/c and is fantastic: It's great climbing up there, and shaded on hot days in the AM. Big relief from crowds and heat. |
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Tony B wrote: And nobody has mentioned Ra That's because we like when no one is up there! I wouldn't say it is the best learning multipitch environment though. The climbing is great though with some stiff grades. |
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Jay Eggleston wrote: Do “Black Gold” to the LEFT THEN THE RIGHT of “Solid Gold”/“Playing Hooky”. It’s only 5.7 but is a less crowded multi-pitch. :D |