North Chimney "Practice" Route?
|
I have a friend that wants to do the Casual Route. My only hiccup is their mental fortitude during the solo up the North Chimney, since they've never solo'd. I am not particularly keen on doing the Chasm View Raps, unless it is likely that the Chimney would be empty on a Wednesday. I don't feel like raining rock onto climbers. On that same thread, I don't want to rope up for that reason. |
|
rap north face, new rap anchors courtesy of Sam Lightner Jr |
|
You could just rope up and climb the crack of delight. |
|
Jeffrey Constine wrote: rap north face, new rap anchors courtesy of Sam Lightner Jr I'm intrigued...which question does this answer? |
|
Test solo? Just rap in via Chasm View. Or rope up and climb North Chimney in the middle of the night. |
|
Jeffrey Constine wrote: rap north face, new rap anchors courtesy of Sam Lightner Jr Someone get me a Lebowski clip.... |
|
IMO, your partner should have at least a handful of solos under his/her belt before soloing the North Chimney. It may not be the best place to test the waters. Some people solo most of the chimney and rope near the end because you may encounter a few exposed 5.7 moves. Start with Second Flat Iron. Then, maybe the bomb or recon in eldo, Then, the First Flat Iron. Some 5.6 on this one. But, North Chimney can be wet, loose rock, etc. So you many want to practice one or two grades harder before heading up North Chimney. |
|
Charles Vernon wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yGVY-xVaSQ Replies: So I had thought about that crack of delight. Roping up at 3am or so. It looks like it is a fairly straight shot up the route. Is it easy to get lost on that particular route? It seems like the target time for NC is about 4-5 AM. Would it be totally uncool to rap in around 3 from Chasm View? Greg, those are some good suggestions. Also, I don't know why but I hate soloing the first. I feel fine most other places including RMNP. Maybe it is the consequences, eg - bouncing, that frighten me the most. I'd rather pretend to be Alex Honnold in Eldo than doing the first :/ |
|
Perfect, thank you. |
|
You can also just simo the north chimney the whole way up too. Avoid fri-sun there and you will be more likely to enjoy the climb better and more safe as well. |
|
Just rap Chasm View. It's quite nice, actually. |
|
There's no reason to solo the entire North Chimney. It's very reasonable to simul-climb the whole thing, with at least two intermediate pieces between climbers. Or, solo up to the steep section at the top of the chimney and belay the last 30 or 40 feet, which is not only much harder than anything else on this approach but also a little loose. |
|
My partner and I rapped in from chasm view without knocking anything down, and it didn't require more than the usual care and attention to do so. I've only been up there once so it could've been partly unusually good conditions, but I kinda doubt it because frequent reports of worse-than-usual rock fall in the north chimney that season were part of why we opted for the chasm view raps. |
|
The Diamond is an amazing place, but not worth pushing your partner into something he/she is uncomfortable with. You can rope up in the NC without causing rockfall so long as you are careful about placing pro not only as fall protection but also to directionalize the rope away from loose areas. |
|
Dougald MacDonald wrote:Also, I can't say with certainty, but I don't think a rock knocked off during the Chasm View raps is likely to hit anyone. Those raps are WAY to the right of the North Chimney and the popular climbs on the Diamond. Of course, one still wants to take great care. I have a friend who took a rock to the face while pulling ropes down Chasm View. |