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Gunks historical routes no longer legal to climb

Original Post
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423

I've been climbing a lot up at Peterskill lately, particularly in the area between my projects (Oops and Golden Dream (which I'm nearly ready to lead!)). While enjoying the view from the top I've noticed a bunch of other cliffs out there and it got me thinking about what other crags are out there which aren't currently open to climbing but might have a history of climbing. For example, Sam's Point; I don't know of any history of climbing there but I can't imagine such a prominent feature is unclimbed. There are at least two other crags which can be seen from the top of Peterskill which I don't know the name of--when facing out from the top of Oops, theres one to the right and one directly across and slightly left.

I'm not bringing this up to encourage illegal climbing in these areas. I'm looking at it more from an interest in the history of the Gunks where I love to climb.

Legal areas to climb (not what this thread is about): Trapps, Near Trapps, Millbrook, Peterskill, Dicke Barre, Bonticou (undocumented), Lost City (undocumented), Skytop (with approved guide)

Areas where climbing is currently illegal, but with a history of climbing: ???

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

there are cliffs along the escarpment on private land. i’ve heard rumor of private 5.12s. 

Brian Monetti · · New York, NY · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 322

Hiked around Sams Point before and noticed a handful of pitons still up there. Climbing is no longer allowed though. 

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
petzl logic wrote: there are cliffs along the escarpment on private land. i’ve heard rumor of private 5.12s. 

The escarpment?

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

i mean the whole cliff band, not just the part in the parks of sams point, minne, mohonk, and the preserve. 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419


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Yes,
there are miles, whole valleys, deep in the outback
&
End of the road Cliffs, too
 that have seen Hammer &  Piton
Looking to the right, straight at "No Axez Crack" f
Ice Caves Mountain Attraction Where only the "specially connected", now get to play
petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

i heard minnie is looking into opening dickie barre and beacon hill to climbers. sounds interesting. i’ve walked by beacon hill in the past but can’t remember it. i think dickie barre is more of a slab than the typical gunks rock. wasn’t even part of the park on my most recent map (2013). hopefully someone with some legacy knowledge can chip in.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
petzl logic wrote: i heard minnie is looking into opening dickie barre and beacon hill to climbers. sounds interesting. i’ve walked by beacon hill in the past but can’t remember it. i think dickie barre is more of a slab than the typical gunks rock. wasn’t even part of the park on my most recent map (2013). hopefully someone with some legacy knowledge can chip in.

Dicke Barre has been open to climbing for a few years now. There are a few really nice lines there, particularly Fine Pine Line (5.7) that follows an aesthetic crack with balance-y moves, Bolt Line (5.8) which has a sloper-y style that's unusual for the Gunks, and some hard unclimbed projects in the section with the enormous roofs.

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

sweet, maybe i’ll get to spend a day there this fall

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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