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Jonathan Badger
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Jun 28, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2017
· Points: 0
Going to aid Glass Menagerie over the 4th weekend, any good tips/ beta?
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Parker H
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Jun 28, 2018
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Indianapolis
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 0
Micronuts, camhooks, 4s for the wide pitch at the top. Combine 4/5 and last 2 pitches to save time. Bushwhack to the nose anchors is not so bad but use your phone gps, or just rap the route it’s supposedly possible.
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Brian Payst
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Jun 29, 2018
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Carrboro,NC
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 10
You can do it without camhooks,but they can be handy in a couple of spots. Do the variation second pitch, it’s much nicer than the 5.8 traverse and way better aid practice. If you rap, 2 70s will just barely reach from the anchors above the roof, be careful on that rap.
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MisterMont
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Jul 15, 2018
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Detroit
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 10
Hey Jonathan, How did it go? I’m doing it next weekend. A bit worried about the fact that it seems to rain every day. The plan is to haul and sleep on a ledge below the roof. Then blast off early the next day for the summit - leaving the haul bag behind - and then rap the route to recover it.
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Jonathan Badger
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Jul 15, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2017
· Points: 0
Good luck we didn't like the thunderstorm forcast and ended up at the red. Hope to go in the fall when there is less rain to try again.
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MauryB
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Jul 15, 2018
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 393
If you area aiding the Menagerie please leave the hooks at home. It has been stated time again they are not necessary and holds have been broken, jeopardizing this exceptional free climb.
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Parker H
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Jul 15, 2018
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Indianapolis
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 0
As a new aid leader I found medium cam hooks very nice for the seam on p3 much better than fiddling with more tiny stoppers. No damage risk from those, that being said keep any other hooks away and don’t hook the face holds.
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Brian Payst
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Jul 16, 2018
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Carrboro,NC
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 10
deemonti wrote: Hey Jonathan, How did it go? I’m doing it next weekend. A bit worried about the fact that it seems to rain every day. The plan is to haul and sleep on a ledge below the roof. Then blast off early the next day for the summit - leaving the haul bag behind - and then rap the route to recover it. I haven't personally tried that, but I think it might be challenging to get back to a bag left under the roof on rappel. You could definitely haul the bag up the roof pitch (lower it out), dock it there and then pick it up on the way down.
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Homer Simpson
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Apr 2, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 0
I see that most (all?) the anchor bolts along the route have been updated with modern bolt hardware. Does anyone know if the bolts at the very top (end of P7, before the trees) have similarly been upgraded? Many moons ago they were a couple of real rusty museum pieces.
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thatboyaintright .
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Apr 2, 2019
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CALIFORNIA
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 20
Homer Simpson wrote: I see that most (all?) the anchor bolts along the route have been updated with modern bolt hardware. Does anyone know if the bolts at the very top (end of P7, before the trees) have similarly been upgraded? Many moons ago they were a couple of real rusty museum pieces. Did it last Spring, they’re all up to “modern” NC standard. ...kidding, all the hardware looked great. The third pitch had brand new glue-ins.
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Homer Simpson
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Apr 3, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 0
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