Munter top roping on static rope??

So this dude I met doesn't have a belay device yet, but he got one steel locker and some static line from his uncle who used to climb. He cut up some of the rope to build anchors. Anyway, long story short I ran into him at Auburn quarry TRing some surprisingly challenging choss on this setup. Does anyone else climb on this type of setup?? Seemed to work pretty well. The lack of harnesses was a little sketchy though...

Weird.  I wouldn't do it based off of first glance.  You are still taking minor falls on top rope if your belayer isn't keeping you tight.  Might as well just do a trax line.

Ryan Swanson wrote: That doesn't look too chossy

*the sketch does not appropriately represent the quality of the rock.

Peter J wrote:

*the sketch does not appropriately represent the quality of the rock.

Auburn quarry is downright dirty and chossy at some parts.  It is still fun climbing regardless.

Ryan Swanson wrote:

How are we, the keyboard warriors of MP, supposed to know the rock quality is poor if you can't draw a simple topo with chalked holds, bolted cracks, and ledges by the belay for a boombox?

The rock quality is largely irrelevant hear, unless we want to get into discussing the risks of belaying in chossville without an autolocking belay device... but those predisposed to promoting using an autolocking belay device seem to dogmatically cling to their opinion in any situation--regardless of relevant hazards, or the lack there of.

I agree, the drawing gives the impression that the rock quality is pretty good.

I want to know more about the rock quality before I can make a comment.

Only, Locals wrote: I agree, the drawing gives the impression that the rock quality is pretty good.

I want to know more about the rock quality before I can make a comment.

On a scale from Yosemite to Woodson, it's ALMOST as bad as Woodson.

Its never a sound idea to have the primary carabiner for the belay out of sight of the belayer, especially with a Munter hitch.

Locking, or otherwise if the gate cannot be tended properly then it can open with tragic results.

not my favorite...

Peter J wrote:

On a scale from Yosemite to Woodson, it's ALMOST as bad as Woodson.

FUGGING LOL YEW WUDN'T LAST THREE SECONDS ON THE ROCK DOWN THIS WAY BRAJ!!11!!  THE OW WOULD CHEW YEW UP AND SPIT YER BONES OUT IN THE MANZANITA NEVAR TO BE SEEN AGAIN11!!!!!

jg fox wrote: Weird.  I wouldn't do it based off of first glance.  You are still taking minor falls on top rope if your belayer isn't keeping you tight.  Might as well just do a trax line.

The static line isn't an issue in this setup: even if you take a big TR whipper,the fall factor in a top-rope situation is so low that the forces you would experience are extremely low, well within the 6kn or so that our bodies can generally handle.

Harumpfster hits the nail on the head: you should be close enough to monitor and access the master point in this situation.

Just because it works doesn't mean it isn't stupid.

It’s a pretty efficient, cheap set up I don’t think I’d ever think of but, like others, I need to know how chossy you think the quarry is before I can render a real internet verdict.

Peter J wrote: The lack of harnesses was a little sketchy though...

... what was the rope attached to? A webbing harness? Their belt loop? Other? 

No harnesses, static rope, little equipment, shitty terrain.

The 1910s called, they want their climbers back. 

Alex James wrote:

... what was the rope attached to? A webbing harness? Their belt loop? Other? 

Could have been what I used on my first TR - a loop of rope tied tightly around the waist with a bowline. After the first day I graduated to a bowline on a coil. 

He could be using a swami belt instead. 

Josh Lipko wrote: Just because it works doesn't mean it isn't stupid.

Ditto.

Don’t really see much use for this other than in a party of 2 for a TR session when one climber forgets to bring a harness. Maybe useful in this situation. Would feel ok with the munter out of reach if the master point was a ball lock or tri lock style or locker with the screw lock taped. Maybe safe and useful in that situation?  

wisam wrote: Don’t really see much use for this other than in a party of 2 for a TR session when one climber forgets to bring a harness. Maybe useful in this situation. Would feel ok with the munter out of reach if the master point was a ball lock or tri lock style or locker with the screw lock taped. Maybe safe and useful in that situation?  

lol.

So lemme get this straight: Its ok to have your $30 carabiner for a Munter Hitch belay 80 feet away from you to TR from because you can't afford regular carabiners, slings or a swami belt for a perfectly safe harness for TRing that cost about $20 total used and would allow you to give a safe belay from the ground....?

And you should always be able to see and handle as needed the carabiner being used for a Munter. I think that is a simple and important concept and safe.

Don’t think you really understood the core concept of what I was saying. 

^^^^^Not so much bro. The Munter should never be out of reach. Ever. This is the Core Concept.

How much have you used a Munter? You know if the pear biner flips around they lock up....right?

Now you can't take in rope **or** lower your partner. What could go wrong when you don't even have the gear to anchor the rope and go for help?

And this idea that you tape a biner shut and its now perfectly safe for belaying a human being even though you can't see it and its 60-80' away from you...did you just make that up or have you tried that lol? :)

People used to try that with haul bags....then it started raining haul bags. Lets not start raining humans.

You wanna talk about Core Concepts sometime?

Here's one: You only invent stuff on the fly when you have no choice and must do it get out of a tough situation and back on the ground (and when its your own neck). You don't pull stuff out of left field to save a few dollars and use human beings as your test dummies when there are tried and true safe rules to follow like having the belay in reach of your hand and your control at all times.

<3