All day Trad climbers what shoes are you wearing? (Not TC Pros)

scarpa techno x with the heel rand cut 

Haven't seen Miuras yet, those are my go-to. They fit my feet great, and good for both edging and smearing. Been climbing trad in them for 5 or 6 years now (on my 3rd pair).

I think the most important thing is finding one that matches your foot shape well. 

Jeff Erwin wrote: My first pair of shoes were Mythos and they happily get me by during resoles.  I love my Butora Altura’s but I need a resole. What should I try next for all day trad climbing? Or a trad shoe in general?

Not sure why nobody has said this yet, but just get your butora's resoled and use the mythos for the week or two they're out. As long as they're in decent shape and you didn't bust through the rand they should come back tip top and ready for another season of action. Otherwise just get another pair. 

If you love the way they fit and climb, don't fuck with it by buying another shoe. You'll most likely just end up wasting money and time in the end.

reboot wrote:

If 5-6 pitch routes take you & your partner all day, you got plenty of time to take the shoes off at the belay. 

Last time I was in Eldo I did YS with a break for lunch, Werk Supp and tried to get up March of Dimes before calling it a day. I took the shoes off for the descent but not in between pitches.  But I did all those routes with Mythos on. 

Ross Hokett wrote: How are ya'll sizing the BD Aspect versus your TC pro sizing? Don't have anywhere to try them on locally

They run very small. Size on the Aspects is 2 above my street shoe, Euro!

I climb on granite, mostly cracks but some friction. Moccasyms (0.5 bigger than street-shoe size) for anything sub-5.9, Moccs (street-shoe size) for 5.9-5.10, Anasazi Pinks (again, street-shoe size) for 10+ and beyond.

If a 10+ was pure crack climbing I'd probably still wear Moccs, but in my area there is often some more techy face on harder multis. Moccs are really comfy though, they literally swell to the shape of your foot, I could wear a set of sloppy Moccs all day if the climbing is easy enough.

TC Pros

5.10 pitons on Ebay

Jeff, in answer to your question a million posts back... my street shoe size is 13 to 14, depending on the brand. I have the Techno Xs in 48 (roughly 13, I believe), and the Butora Alturas in 14 narrow. I am a bit old school and hate shoes that you have to take off at every belay. My feet fit flat in these shoes but the toes are firmly against the front of the shoe with no extra space anywhere around my foot or heel—but no extra tight squeeze either. Both shoes are good for hours without taking them off. I only climb into the low 5.10 range and mostly multipitch trad or bolted routes (Catalunya) so maybe I would think differently if I were doing single pitch 5.12 and up sport routes. 

I am on the katana/kataki/otaki train as well. I find I can climb in them all day (need to break them in first). The Katakis grind into my heel a bit much though which I am hoping changes. I size them for trad/cracks. Which means my big toe is just sobskifhtly curled when I first buy them. After they are work in my foot fits pretty flat but not sloppy inside. I lose some power but gain comfort which works well for me. I also go with a pair of Moccasyms when the ground is a bit easier. They are very good all day shoes and really easy to pop on and off.

reboot wrote:

And I bet you could've done all that w/ a pair of slippers or velcro; it's easily under 1000 ft of moderate climbing. I mean, I'm not the one w/ foot problems, but then again I see shoes as necessary evil: there are only degrees of (un)ergonomy (is that even a word?) to any shoes, the less you have to wear them, the better.

FWIW, I've been told Peter Croft wears Scarpa Boostics for everything (crack, face, whatever) these days. Personally, I've only ever used them for granite micro edging.

No doubt I could have....but at the time there were NO Velcro shoes out at all, and the only slippers were, I think, Moccasyms, Cobras and some Boreal slipper. Scarpa were not even distributed in the Midwest yet. 

I owned Cobras at the time, and I don't think I would have tried any kind of crack with them, may as well have been barefoot.

I spent a lot of time in the military with my feet in jump boots, humping a pack or being deployed and my feet being wet. Lots of critters like wet feet apparently. Get under your nails and they fall off.

But I still have them, and they work, to some degree, which is more than I can say for some of my brothers in arms.

Just bought a pair of scarpa force x while my katanas are resoled.  They are super comfy for a full day of climbing and have been performing great for me.

5.10 Grandstones! (sized at my shoe size) They fit fine without socks and fit with thin socks for the cold days. I've climbed .11d in them so they still perform.

Miuras

My main problem with climbing shoes on longer routes is skin chafing / blisters. The katana laces rub the achilles area for me something fierce. With socks on this problem is significantly improved. I've done all-day routes in katanas and this was my experience.

Basically whenever I'm in any climbing shoe for more than ~8 hours these days I have a much better time with a thin pair of socks on my feet. That's my personal $0.02.

Brian Shaffer wrote:I have a much better time with a thin pair of socks on my feet. That's my personal $0.02.

We use smthng like this: amazon.com/Womens-Liner-Soc…

Muira lase up sized correctly allows me to climb hard all day.  I do usually have to kick them off at belays after 6 pitches.
But have done 18 hour days of hard climbing in them and my feet were not the problem.

reboot wrote:

there are only degrees of (un)ergonomy (is that even a word?) to any shoes, the less you have to wear them, the better.

FWIW, I've been told Peter Croft wears Scarpa Boostics for everything (crack, face, whatever) these days.

1. Not true. Shoes let your feet do things they could never do on their own, even if you never ever wore shoes and had the much stronger connective tissue and musculature that almost all modern people do not have. But cramming them in shoes that restrict their movement 24/7 isn't healthy for them either. 

2. Yup, straight from his mouth, he loves the Boostic. Has a few pairs that are sized different depending on what he wants to do, picked it up from Josh Wharton. 

Beth Caughran wrote:

Seconding this. I had a rough time with TC Pros. The fit just doesn't work for me. The Aspects are rad, though.

what is the fit on the aspects like?  Do you size down much from street shoes?

La Sportiva Finale is a nice affordable option.