Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions 2018

Ty Falk wrote: Quick question if anyone would like to help me out... Seams like you want an axe and some crampons for the casual route on the diamond currently. Should I go with Trango boots and real steel crampons or Ganda approach shoes and aluminum crampons. Thanks Colorado folks!!!

Micro spikes worked just fine to get you to the base of the chimney as of last Saturday. This requires starting the route on the ~5.6 slab instead of taking the ice tongue 1/3 the way up on the right of the gully.

What Adam said. When I did it last Friday it looked like you could just use microspikes if you started on the rock slab on the left. I took the ice tongue on the right and did it in la sportiva TX3 with alum crampons and ax.

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

Thanks! Since they're ever changing, anybody know what sharkstooth's current rap situation is like? 

As of about 15 days ago the raps were in good shape and could be done with a single 70m and some moderate scrambling. 2x 60m ropes would let you go anchor to anchor. 

Thanks for the info guys!! Should a bring a aluminum axe or Sum tec? Sharp points just for use on snow or rock too?

Any updates on approach conditions for the Casual Route re. crampons/axe? And is there a good place to stash them if used, or would you typically take them all the way up & down?

Thanks!

Giles Eperon wrote: Any updates on approach conditions for the Casual Route re. crampons/axe? And is there a good place to stash them if used, or would you typically take them all the way up & down?

Thanks!

As of last weekend the snow extended a good third of the way up to the right side of the rock ramp. I took the rock ramp and had little trouble kicking up to it in my approach shoes so I would imagine if you had crampons you would charge up the snow and access the rock ramp higher up. As for what to do with your gear when you get to broadway, that depends on if you plan on going to the top and how you plan on getting down. If only going as far as table ledge, then leave your spikes on broadway. If going to the summit then you can still leave your gear on broadway, just take the chasm view raps back to broadway after you complete your climb. The snow at the base of the chasm view raps appeared to be easily traversable/avoidable in approach shoes. If you want to walk off then you’ll have to bring everything with you up the route.