Do you guys have any beginner (V3 level) training beta
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I am a beginner who can climb V3 in the gym. Do you guys have training routines that might help. |
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Climb more. |
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Ok thanks. |
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Abram Herman wrote: Climb more. Agreed strength is likely not the limiting factor, but practicing bad technique is just going to make it all the more difficult to make improvements. Look for training books that have large sections on technique and utilize those as a forum post is not going to this topic justice. IMO V3/V4 is where you really need to start paying attention to your hips and your center of gravity. Pick out a couple basic climbing moves like back stepping or crossing through a hold and practice it (both sides/directions of your body) on a systems board with a ton of different holds (good, mediocre, bad, various directions of pull, etc.) and focus on how much better/worse a position feels by shifting your hips, turning your hips, or re-positioning your feet to adjust your hips. Watch A LOT of other people climb hard routes. Focus on how they shift and turn their hips. Then when you get on a hard climb for you, force yourself not to just throw for the next good hold, force yourself to find a body position that makes the movement is easier. Keep doing this on the same route for every move, see if there is an easier way/position to make each individual move by better positioning your body.You can always improve footwork. Focus on placing your big toe on the best part of the hold. You'd eventually get there by just climbing more but if you put that specific focus on it you'll likely see improvements much faster. |
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Books like the rock climbers training manual? |
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Read self coached climber by Hunter and Hague, climb 3x a week and sometimes focus on what you read in SCC, stretch your hips and shoulders. |
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Try real climbing soon |
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CORE!!!!! |
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Jon Frisby wrote: Read self coached climber by Hunter and Hague, climb 3x a week and sometimes focus on what you read in SCC, stretch your hips and shoulders. This. Neil Gresham's masterclass series has good visuals on fundamental body positions to climb steep ground:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r Climb slab w/o hands, palms against the wall thumbs up only. This will force you to commit to feet properly and shift your hips w/o excessive use of your hands. Footwork drills beyond the usual recommendation of quiet feet, set out wine corks on larger holds. Make it your goal to set inside edge and pivot to outside edge wo popping or knocking the cork off. Use specs of chalk on footholds to progress the quiet feet into "accurate feet", place the very tip of your shoe on the spec of chalk on the foothold. |
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As you get stronger, you will undoubtedly begin to experience muscle imbalances which will cause issues. It happens to everyone. I would highly recommend taking on a routine of climbing "prehab" exercises. |
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I wouldn’t say V3 is beginner, but grades vary. At V3 hangboarding helped me. Too bad I’m not more diligent |
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I am currently doing hangboarding upper body strength and core strength exercises |
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Seth Bleazard wrote: I am currently doing hangboarding upper body strength and core strength exercises Just make sure you stay away from the campus board or any similar high strain workout until you have climbed consistently for quite a while. The reason for this is that your muscles will strengthen much more rapidly than your tendons and therefore, take it slowly, you don't want to injure those. Also, as previously stated, diet, rest and hydration are all just as important. |
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Climb more and climb smart. Remember not everyday has to be a PR. It helped me a lot to climb the same route over and over till I felt I had it as clean as possible. Climb a lot below your level and work your footwork and body positioning. |