Grand Teton Conditions

Anyone been up the grand recently? Thinking of heading down next week and was wondering about snow/ice conditions on the Owen-Spalding and conditions on the trail up the Lower Saddle. 

I’ll be there the 2nd week in July and am also interested in conditions.

Also curious... gonna be out there early July... can’t wait to get up in the mountains!

The Jenny Lake Rangers updated the blog 3 days ago. Check  here for the latest conditions. 

Very wintery still. Solid snow above 9.5k feet on all aspects. These conditions might be great for a climb of the upper exum as much of the rock should be dry due to solar radiation on the south aspects, but the approach and descent will require the use of crampons and an axe, boots might be nice too. The OS will by icy in the chimneys and also snowy and/or verglassed on the slabs due to recent precipitation (this week). Also conditions should be pretty good for a snow climb of the East Ridge route. Glissade conditions should be great on the headwall below the lower saddle making for a quick descent. Keep an eye on the weather this week, any rain showers could be freezing precipitation up high causing conditions to worsen. Have at it!

Planning to be there in about a week without crampons or ice axe and really only rock climbing experience. Looks like doing the exum ridge is out? At least the upper? What would irenes be like? Been on guide wall before. That one should be rock only right?

I climbed Irenes Arete a week ago and the route itself was great. The approach and descent were still very snowy. What normally is a straightforward descent turned into a mini-epic of post-holing, roped downclimbing and rappelling off of trees. At a bare minimum you need an ice axe. If it's a warm day you might get away it without crampons, but I wouldn't bet on it. 

The OS will be icy/snowy for quite a while into July at least, especially with the fresh snow the last week.  Upper Exum dries out pretty quickly but if you're not ready for the descent with an ice axe at least then you're gonna have an unpleasant time.  The descent on Irene's appeared to have a decent amount of snow still in the couloir ^^^.  

Thanks for the info. Heading there now. Have conditions improved? Hoping to at least get on guides wall. Anyone know the conditions on that approach?

Guides Wall is totally clear of snow as are all the rock climbs lower down.  Probably not much snow up to the Disappointment peak climbs if any by now too.  

This is off topic but I am looking for recommendations on crampon style for the Grand approach ( OS) in late July.  I have spikes that attach to approach shoes... sufficient? I figured my ice climbing crampons and Mt boots would be overkill but reading above has me questioning.  Thanks for any help.  

Mike Reardon wrote: This is off topic but I am looking for recommendations on crampon style for the Grand approach ( OS) in late July.  I have spikes that attach to approach shoes... sufficient? I figured my ice climbing crampons and Mt boots would be overkill but reading above has me questioning.  Thanks for any help.  

Late July most years crampons on approach shoes would probably be fine. This year you might still need 3 season boots, but a lot depends on your relative comfort on snow vs. rock in the relevant footwear. 

I did the approach on 6/28 with strap-on CAMP crampons on my approach shoes, I think micro-spikes wouldn't have been sufficient. The snow was pretty soft and slushy. The day after I went there was supposed to be rain and colder temps, so my info might be outdated.

Brad Ray wrote: I did the approach on 6/28 with strap-on CAMP crampons on my approach shoes, I think micro-spikes wouldn't have been sufficient. The snow was pretty soft and slushy. The day after I went there was supposed to be rain and colder temps, so my info might be outdated.

How were conditions on the upper mtn?  Did you need an axe or traction up high?  thanks!

Thanks Derek and Ben!

Bump

If it's helpful, here are a couple live cams of the Grand:

AAC

Photo taken friday 7/6 from Mt. Moran.  Still lots of snow on the upper west face (O/S).

How’s the CMC on Moran looking?

Looking good! You can avoid all snow on the CMC right now, and plenty of water at the campsite for probably most of the summer unless it stays this hot.