Best beginner PAS/ rappel setup?
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Going to be taking my gf outdoor climbing in couple months, and wanted to get her a pas/ rap extension that’s no fuss and easy to get used to. |
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beal dynaconnexion |
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Any PAS will work. Don't overanalyze it. I prefer the Sterling Chain Reactor because it's nylon. |
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i mean, this topic already has many threads and i did just buy the beal for my gf but this isn’t a case of needing to feel better about a purchase or advocate my decision making. taking short falls on static systems like nylon slings or daisies suck. |
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petzl logic wrote: i mean, this topic already has many threads and i did just buy the beal for my gf but this isn’t a case of needing to feel better about a purchase or advocate my decision making. taking short falls on static systems like nylon slings or daisies suck. Amazing response. Thank you! |
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Maybe slightly off topic but I'd recommend lowering over rappelling. You can find tutorial online but the basic premise is that you pass a bite of rope though the anchor (assuming you have a quicklink at the top, don't do this though a bolt), tie a figure 8 on the bite, connect it to you with a locking carabiner, untie your first figure 8 and proceed to clean the route as you lower. |
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It may be beneficial to show multiple setups so she can find out what works best for her needs. Sometimes you may think you like something until you use it. |
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He never said it was for cleaning the anchor. |
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There are a bunch of methods that are all safe and functional, and choosing between them is largely a matter of preference. Why not get her started with some research into options, help her understand the various pros and cons, and let her choose what works for her? |
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You didn't say whether you would be doing one pitch sport climbing with bomber modern anchors or multipitch or trad with sling tat and shitty aluminum rings |
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You don't need a PAS for anything/except rapping with a Haul bag. |
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Why over complicate things and extend the rappel in the first place? *sounds sassy but is genuine |
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Evan Mann wrote: Why over complicate things and extend the rappel in the first place? *sounds sassy but is genuine That’s a good question! I personally find it WAY more comfortable when extended. Along with that it’s easier to attatch an auto block backup, and to make sure it stays away from the belay device. That’s my personal preference though |
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Evan Mann wrote: Why over complicate things and extend the rappel in the first place? *sounds sassy but is genuine There are a ton of reasons to use an extended rappel. More redundant, more versatile, etc.. Also not sure it actually complicates anything, it's a quick system to rig. I use a Metolius PAS, ATC and Prusik for sport raps. Easy and quick system to learn and put together.PAS girth hitched. ATC extended on first ring of PAS. Prusik tied in auto block and clipped to belay loop. Also allows hands free cleaning when necessary. |
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just ditch the PAS for something dynamic and you’re good to go. :) |
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Jeffrey K wrote: If you would just lower, as one should 95% of the time on sport routes, you wouldn't need to haul any of that gear strapped to you harness. |
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M Sprague wrote: That's not proper etiquette here so I'll keep rappeling. I use the rope or nylon sling for trad/multi but a PAS is awfully convenient for sport routes, IMO. Never getting above the anchor in that situation and PAS is always loaded. Safe and fast. |
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Evan Mann wrote: Why over complicate things and extend the rappel in the first place? *sounds sassy but is genuine If you're climbing multi-pitch with a new person, there are a TON of reasons to do this. The extension allows a quick autoblock to be tied to the belay loop (NOT the leg loop) where it's load bearing. This adds maybe 10-15 seconds to the set up, and provides an extra margin of redundancy. |
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Jeffrey K wrote:Explain. |
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With a nylon sling, she may notice that the thing you bought for her is much cheaper than the one you use yourself. That seems like a greater risk than static falls IMO. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Explain. Allows clipping backup to belay loop over leg loop and better clears belay device from the backup. There are plenty of safe ways to rappel. The method I mentioned is the one most current guide associations teach to beginners, per OPs request. |