New Millet Shiva vs G2 SM?

Has anyone have some experience with the new Millet Shiva? I wonder how they would compare to the LS G2 SM in terms of warmth, fit and durability? I'm looking for a lightweight "do it all boot" for both Aconcagua and Denali and Millet rates them good for -22F on their website, will that be warm enough for Denali without overboots?

I would pick the G2 SM without hesitation, but I don't feel confortable in them. Scarpa doesn't seem to offer anything comparable without going with an 8000m boot... So that brings me back to the Millet, but information and real world experience seem pretty scarce!

Thanks!

Scarpa doesn't seem to offer anything comparable without going with an 8000m boot

Has the Phantom 6000 been determined to be a lesser boot than the G2? Steck (RIP) thought it was good to 8km. He was getting paid by Scarpa obviously, but he seemed like a straight shooter. 

https://youtu.be/N8QHIerFg-8

I can't help re: Millet, sorry.

jdejace wrote: Has the Phantom 6000 been determined to be a lesser boot than the G2? Steck (RIP) thought it was good to 8km. He was getting paid by Scarpa obviously, but he seemed like a straight shooter.

https://youtu.be/N8QHIerFg-8

I can't help re: Millet, sorry.

I wouldn't say lesser, but in this case it's nowhere as warm as the G2, I don't think anyone would use them on Denali without an overboot and for the price they cost it's hard to ignore they tip the scale at twice as much as the G2 and the Shiva. Don't get me wrong, I wish Scarpa had a boot that fits my needs, I love my MBP.

What do you mean they tip the scale at twice as much? You're counting the overboot?

They look like they are 24g lighter, but are they really worth that price..? 

jdejace wrote:What do you mean they tip the scale at twice as much? You're counting the overboot?

Woops, I was looking at the specs and some are rated "per boots" while other have no mention, should have known better!

Chris C. wrote: They look like they are 24g lighter, but are they really worth that price..? 

Hehe they're around 700$ on backcountry and there was a 25% off for memorial day.

Chuck Z wrote: I wouldn't say lesser, but in this case it's nowhere as warm as the G2, I don't think anyone would use them on Denali without an overboot and for the price they cost it's hard to ignore they tip the scale at twice as much as the G2 and the Shiva. Don't get me wrong, I wish Scarpa had a boot that fits my needs, I love my MBP.

Chuck, I would definitely use the 6000s on Denali, without question. I switched from the G2SMs to the Phantom 6000 and I think they are every bit as warm. I guarantee that you would see many, many pairs of 6000s on Denali. I used my 6000s on two Alaska trips this season (March and April) and was never the slightest bit cold. 

Why did you switch? 

I've always used La Sportiva boots (Nuptse, Spantik, Nepal, Trango, G2SM) and the G2SMs just didn't fit my feet like the others. They were wider in the toe box and less stiff (a bane for skiing, which is very common on Alaska climbing trips). I would have gone a half size down in the G2SMs, but I liked the feel of the Scarpa 6000s.

Both boots are very well made - light, easy to tighten and modify, good overall feel - but I preferred the 6000s. I've gone through two pair of Spantiks and didn't want to buy a third pair. Either way...you won't go wrong as long as you get a good fit!

Reviving this thread as I'm also interested in the Shiva. Have never tried Millet boots, but have heard they run wide. The Millet Davai (supposed to be a 6000m boot, possibly Shiva's predecessor?) had a lot of good things said about it on Backcountry and in Climbing mag. The Shiva is running under $500 for a 5000-6000m boot, which seems like a great deal.

Found one review: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/gear/millet_shiva_double_boots-699653. Fit not so good for squarer feet.

clint helander wrote: I've always used La Sportiva boots (Nuptse, Spantik, Nepal, Trango, G2SM) and the G2SMs just didn't fit my feet like the others. They were wider in the toe box and less stiff (a bane for skiing, which is very common on Alaska climbing trips). I would have gone a half size down in the G2SMs, but I liked the feel of the Scarpa 6000s.

Both boots are very well made - light, easy to tighten and modify, good overall feel - but I preferred the 6000s. I've gone through two pair of Spantiks and didn't want to buy a third pair. Either way...you won't go wrong as long as you get a good fit!

Looks like U might be the only one in internet which knows answers on my questions :D
G2 vs spatnik - which is warmer/stiffer/more durable? One say this is warmer, other that. The same with climbing abilities. I heard spatnik are warmer then phantom 6000, but not shure about g2 vs spatnik. Also em I wright, that older and more heavy spatniks will be both stiffer and more durable? (also with the sole). Which one of this 3 is 1 warmer 2 more durable 3 stiffer 4 better to climb? Why U chose 6000 over the rest?

Thanks! 

From what I've heard the G2 have been worn on 7000m peaks but I believe everyone's foot is different. Some people get cold feet some don't.