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Alpine Draws. What carabiners are you using?

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

Are people still having issues with nose hooking on the current revision of the Photons?  

I haven't heard of any issues or seen any pics of broken carabiners, since they were redesigned (hooded nose, shallower notch).  I understand that the nose is still not completely clean, but it seems that the propensity for nose hooking should be significantly less, since the redesign.  

Peter M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10
Señor Arroz wrote:

Do you perhaps mean $8 per carabiner? Because otherwise the math doesn't add up. 

yup right 8 dollar a biner! Thanks for the catch. The wild country wild wires i think i got for 9 dollars a draw though! But not worth it haha.

MyFeetHurt · · Glenwood, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

No love for the DMM Alpha Trad? Wire gate with a protected hood and large opening.

Sam Striano · · Sublimity, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
MyFeetHurt wrote: No love for the DMM Alpha Trad? Wire gate with a protected hood and large opening.

I am leaning towards the Helium and the DMM Alpha Trad.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Sam Striano wrote:

I am leaning towards the Helium and the DMM Alpha Trad.

I own a lot of DMM stuff and I have yet to find one of their products that isn't top notch, well thought out with a lot of attention paid to details. From the rope bag/backpack to their carabiners. I would absolutely go with the DMM Alpha.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

I've used many different sets of alpine draw biners over the years, everything from Chouinard D's to Heliums and used each of them in turn until they were notched and in need of replacing. I currently use Metolius Infernos - wiregates with a notch - after years of using hooded Heliums, mainly because I concluded some time ago that it really just doesn't much matter one way or the other.

Rob Coleman · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

+1 for WC Heliums.  They're really pricey, but if you can swing it, they're great

Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

If your just talking alpine draws, Madrock ultralight wires are the way to go - less than $5 each

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

Mix and match between ange l and camp dyons.  Both have no notch  and a very small nose/profile.  Both resist freezing/stuck gates very well. 

Faraday · · Buenos Aires, AR · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I have some blue BD positron on the pro side and silver OZ on the rope side. I use them just because i had a bunch of them liyng around, but i’d love some WC heliums for the pro side. For slings i use a mix of brands in different colors, so instead of color coding the biners i have red, green, yellow, etc slings.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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