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Mammut Magic Guide High GTX????

Original Post
Joel McCombs · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 5

Anyone have anything to say about these?
Warmth?
Fit?
Crampon Compatibility?

CalvinM · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 70

JM, from talking to the guys at our shop(AAI) about the Magic High(not the guide) they fit the average foot pretty well.  So somewhere between normal scarpa and sportiva fit.   Warmth of the normal Magic was about on par with say the Trango extreme so perhaps the guides are around a nepal warmth?

Brandon Rose · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 6

Thanks for the info Calvin. JM, let us know if you get them as I'm curious about the boot too.

Aaron V · · Abbotsford, BC · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 65

I have a pair of Mammut magic advanced high gtx boots which i use for mountaineering and ice in the north cascades & sw BC. I have used them for a few years now and am happy with them so far. They are pretty true to size imo (I sized up a half size to avoid smashing my toes). I have fairly wide toes and found they work well for me. One thing to note is they did not come with removable insoles but i added my own from my old backpacking boots. I have found them to be fairly waterproof and warm on water ice and peaks over 3000m when paired with gaiters. I use them with grivel cramp-o-matic crampons and they are solid. Also can confirm that BD & Petzl crampons fit as well but i havnt used them as often in technical terrain.
That being said i dont know what all the differences between the magic advanced and the magic guides are.

Joel McCombs · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 5

I did get a pair. I would say they fit true to size and are fairly low volume, especially in toe box which is the only reason I'm not going to keep em. The heel lacing system is pretty cool and I can tell a difference (walking around in basement) in improved heel lock. 

JR Giha · · Alberta · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

For those who have used these boots. Would they perform well on both alpine rock and ice cragging? I'm looking at either the Magic High or Magic Guide High.

I'm not near any retailers that carry them and I'm hoping to buy a pair online. Which brings me to the next point. Anyone know of any other boot (Scarpa or LaSportiva) that has a similar boot to make sure I can fit them well? I don't like buying online for this reason but don't have a choice on this one. tia

Porter McMichael · · Issaquah, WA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 90
JR GIha wrote: For those who have used these boots. Would they perform well on both alpine rock and ice cragging? I'm looking at either the Magic High or Magic Guide High.

I'm not near any retailers that carry them and I'm hoping to buy a pair online. Which brings me to the next point. Anyone know of any other boot (Scarpa or LaSportiva) that has a similar boot to make sure I can fit them well? I don't like buying online for this reason but don't have a choice on this one. tia

I think any fully rigid boot will work well for ice cragging as long as your feet stay warm (ish). For alpine rock? I use rock shoes.... fully rigid boots are pretty bad at 4/5th class rock since they cant smear. Not saying people haven’t climbed hard rock in Spantiks in Alaska but personally I take rock shoes (or approach shoes) if the climbing will be harder than 5.3 or so.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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