New and Experienced Climbers over 50

Balance, note he's dropped the heel of the foot he's actually standing on. Stand up straight everywhere you can and relax.

Technique trumps strength most of the time. It baffles the young when old people cruise what they just couldn't do.

It's not a cheeseburger, don't rush it. 

Yup old people are not dead yet! PS dropping the heal down stops sewing-machine leg lol!

Old lady H wrote:

Hey, Lori, try turning your hip to the wall, to keep your hand on that sloper while trying to get a foot up. I don't bend worth a darn, anymore, so the only way my feet go something like high, is if my butt goes way out. Only happens on a jug, so you need to reorient that sloper.

Same thing for me, as rgold mentioned, grabbing a sloper. If it's the right size, my really small bones can loop my wrist over the top. Sometimes, again, from being sideways, you can then turn it into an oppositional, rather than a straight pull move. And, you can sit on the darn things, too!

Hope this helps! Best, H.

There seems to be a limit on the number of allowed responses on MP (so I had to wait to respond).  You might have been a fly on the wall yesterday when my climbing coach yelled "Turn your hip to the wall!" ... and I yelled down "Which hip?"  

Sorry, I am back again, but "Which Hip?" seems like a great new name for a new FA.  I am on it!

Jeff constine wrote:PS dropping the heal down stops sewing-machine leg lol!

Wait? You mean you get sewing-machine leg?

Roy Suggett wrote: Sorry, I am back again, but "Which Hip?" seems like a great new name for a new FA.  I am on it!

Wait! ? You dont have a list of un-named FAs?

Here is a perfect Line for the name "Which Hip" 205, WHICH HIP,

when yur leg starts shakin drop your heal it stops 

I was looking at a picture of a climber this morning while at the gym, and I just stared... couldn't for the life of me figure out HOW he was holding himself on this wall.  He's just standing there, comfortably.  So it's NOT big muscles.  It is 'the ability to maintain body tension..."  He doesn't appear wobbly, or about to lose his balance.  This is baffling...    

One can be very fit without having massive muscles. Acrobats, aerialists, dancers, et al have great balance and endurance and are typically much stronger than they look.

Roy Suggett wrote: Sorry, I am back again, but "Which Hip?" seems like a great new name for a new FA.  I am on it!

  

Scott Phil wrote: I was looking at a picture of a climber this morning while at the gym, and I just stared... couldn't for the life of me figure out HOW he was holding himself on this wall.  He's just standing there, comfortably.  So it's NOT big muscles.  It is 'the ability to maintain body tension..."  He doesn't appear wobbly, or about to lose his balance.  This is baffling...    

One can be very fit without having massive muscles. Acrobats, aerialists, dancers, et al have great balance and endurance and are typically much stronger than they look.

Scott, it's all starting to come together for me now... I danced for years, but really thought I would need more power and muscle to get up those rock formations.  Hopefully, one day I can dance up a grade. Until then, I'm still just trying to get the basics down.  What an incredible sport!  Nothing to match it for total fitness, brain work, balance, breath... and laughter. 

Hey BTW. In regards to older climbers and injury, I posted a while ago about a shoulder problem I had.  I thought it was an impingement, was in terrible pain for about three weeks, couldn't even hold a tea cup without pain.  Got very depressed  

Last night I unthinkingly shot my injured arm out to catch something, felt EXTREME pain that had me doubled over, but also felt an odd movement in the shoulder at the front.  Funny thing is, once the pain subsided from that I felt a LOT better.  

Now, the next day,  I have almost NO pain at all. It feels just like I did a medium hard workout, that's all.  A friend of mine reckons I had a dislocated biceps tendon and it seems by all accounts I did! Feel SO much better, on top of the world and I think after a week or two of stretching, rock rings and gymnastic rings I'll be ready to hit the climbing gym for bouldering and crag for climbing too!!  I'm not out of the game yet it seems   

#keepingonkeepingon #oldfitandstrong #ageshallnotwearythemnortheyearscondemn #rageagainstthedyingofthelight #riseupbeforewefall   

Carl Schneider wrote: 
Last night I unthinkingly shot my injured arm out to catch something, felt EXTREME pain that had me doubled over, but also felt an odd movement in the shoulder at the front.  Funny thing is, once the pain subsided from that I felt a LOT better.  

Now, the next day,  I have almost NO pain at all. It feels just like I did a medium hard workout, that's all.  

Hefted a pint at full extension, mate?  I agree, works wonders!  ;-)

I wanted to report in from my last visit of the season Joshua Tree. It’s starting to get fun now and I think I’m ready for a summer of climbing other places. Having been pretty sick with the flu for a couple of weeks I didn’t expect to be strong this week but I was.  We spent a whole afternoon on Thin Wall, and each grade of climb got easier. I think cracks might be my thing! So...it looks like strength and progress do hold over—even after a break. It’s becoming more intuitive. As you all have been saying—just climb, every different kind of climb.While walking to Thin Wall I pointed out other climbs I’d like to try...every one looks fabulous. (“Umm..Lori that’s a 5.12b.) Like a kid in a candy store.

Packing up to leave with a heavy heart I’m trying to understand. Why don’t I want to go home? My love of this place has to do with a lot more than climbing..it is the beauty, quiet, congeniality of people here. The blazing skies. But it’s also the climbing. I woke up this morning bruised, sore, banged up and sunburnt, yet still considered the invite to a 6 am climb on a multi pitch route on Hemingway.  I just got off Thin Wall at 7 last night. 

But I declined because I’m learning this “one last climb” idea is a trick of the devil. I don’t think any last climb will be enough. There’s only “the next climb”.  

That climb below, Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing, was one of my first trad leads. 

Lori Milas wrote:

I wanted to report in from my last visit of the season Joshua Tree. It’s starting to get fun now and I think I’m ready for a summer of climbing other places. Having been pretty sick with the flu for a couple of weeks I didn’t expect to be strong this week but I was.  We spent a whole afternoon on Thin Wall, and each grade of climb got easier. I think cracks might be my thing! So...it looks like strength and progress do hold over—even after a break. It’s becoming more intuitive. As you all have been saying—just climb, every different kind of climb.While walking to Thin Wall I pointed out other climbs I’d like to try...every one looks fabulous. (“Umm..Lori that’s a 5.12b.) Like a kid in a candy store.

Lori Milas wrote: I woke up this morning bruised, sore, banged up and sunburnt, yet still considered the invite to a 6 am climb on a multi pitch route on Hemingway.  I just got off Thin Wall at 7 last night.But I declined because I’m learning this “one last climb” idea is a trick of the devil. I don’t think any last climb will be enough. There’s only “the next climb”.  

"If you can walk, you can climb" I'll not name the genius that said it.....

Your "adult" brain aka voice of reason stopped you from impending additional pain no doubt. But......

Often your confidence in youself is tainted by how you feel. Others looking at you make judgements based on how you are acting.

They wouldn't have asked you if they didn't think you could do it. They wouldn't chance having to drag you up something or have to bail needlessly if they felt strongly it would go that way.

Next time, throw some mustard packets in your pocket, eat four aspirin, chug a coffee and go.

I remember being so sore one Sunday morning I could hardly crawl out of my tent. 2,400 feet the day before had kicked my butt.

My buddy was chomping at the bit, We ended up doing another 1,000 feet before I said "enough" I caught myself smiling in pain, in the truck on the way home.

The devil is too busy with the internet to trick people into climbing........ ;)

John Barritt wrote:

"If you can walk, you can climb" I'll not name the genius that said it.....

Your "adult" brain aka voice of reason stopped you from impending additional pain no doubt. But......

Often your confidence in youself is tainted by how you feel. Others looking at you make judgements based on how you are acting.

They wouldn't have asked you if they didn't think you could do it. They wouldn't chance having to drag you up something or have to bail needlessly if they felt strongly it would go that way.

Next time, throw some mustard packets in your pocket, eat four aspirin, chug a coffee and go.

I remember being so sore one Sunday morning I could hardly crawl out of my tent. 2,400 feet the day before had kicked my butt.

My buddy was chomping at the bit, We ended up doing another 1,000 feet before I said "enough" I caught myself smiling in pain, in the truck on the way home.

The devil is too busy with the internet to trick people into climbing........ ;)

Oh, John. On my three hour drive into Los Angeles for 10 am meeting I’m thinking about this all. You’re right! I could have shoved the meeting out a couple of hours, climbed one of the Poodle climbs (that kills me!) and dashed into LA disheveled but fine. I’m still trying to figure out “balance” in my life, both on and off the rock.

We had a border collie who used to make a dash for freedom any time the gate was left unlocked. I feel like my collie...someone left the gate open and I’m just roaming free and wild. They’ll have to come find me.
My best friend of 45 years has tried to convince me that I really don’t like camping, and I need some luxury. I don’t apparently! My grown kids are keeping a watchful eye on me, wondering what the HELL mom’s doing now. Is this not the time for babysitting grandchildren and knitting?
I guess my thought process today was...it’ll never be enough. I could climb ten Poodle climbs today, and drive home grieving the next one. Maybe John, you’re saying there is enough? Did that last 1000 feet allow you to go home, smile and know you had a great time?  Or maybe for awhile I should give some quarter to the nomad, dirtbag in me and live it out. It’s a serious consideration...

Lori, whatever you decide to do, don't let anyone tell you what you should be doing at your age. At 70, health issues have limited me to gym climbing, but I intend to continue doing that until one of my rotator cuffs gives out again. I miss climbing outside, but I'm glad I kept at it as long as I did.

Lori Milas wrote:
My best friend of 45 years has tried to convince me that I really don’t like camping, and I need some luxury. I don’t apparently! My grown kids are keeping a watchful eye on me, wondering what the HELL mom’s doing now. Is this not the time for babysitting grandchildren and knitting?

I have a mother-in-law who has been sitting around, miserable, waiting to die since she was younger than you are now. Trust me, you're making the right choice. Take the grandchildren to J-tree and share your passion with them. They'll love it.

Lori, I work with ladies in their 90s. Most, don't get around much now. But, they have fabulous stories. And, some, are vibrantly active, including zip lines and tandem sky dives. Make me feel like a piker! From your kids? "At your age", ​is code for "Crap, mom, you're making me look bad", lol! Or, simple jealousy. Or guilt, that they don't take care of themselves. It's good for them, either way. You're still their example of what is possible, and hopefully inspire at least thought. Obviously, you need to talk with them if you bring out despair with the choices they feel "stuck" in at the moment. Six decades is great for putting life in perspective. That, is one of the gifts we can give all those younger people out there. It gets better. Or not. We muddle along anyway.

You are done, when you say you are. Shepherd your resources to guard against injury, but, the goal as far as I'm concerned, is to not be dead before I'm actually buried. As alive as possible, right up until... I'm not.

Of course, I happen to be nursing a knee along that got over used....we won't mention that right now, eh?

Best, Helen