alpine footwear arsenal
|
Hey all, |
|
Gonna need some more info - where/what/when are you climbing? |
|
I don't think its available in North America yet but the new Scarpa Ribelle Tech looks like it might fit your bill. Little $$$ though. |
|
not sure exactly what you are looking for but i have used the salewa rapaces quite a bit and like them a lot. they have a heel welt for crampons and are fairly stiff. they also have a "climbing zone" or something along those lines on the toe for some footwork. my only complaint with them is that they seem to lose their waterproof capabilities pretty quick (i am on my second pair). this has never been an issue for me though. |
|
I think the mid-top waterproof approach shoe is kinda overkill for 90% of rock objectives and too little for 90% of mountaineering objectives. In my experience, they're not stiff enough and don't have good enough tread to make snow travel at all confidence inspiring without crampons, but are too big and clunky for most technical rock climbing. My advice would be to get whichever 3/4 shank mountain boot fits. Kicking steps in proper footwear takes less effort, is quicker, and ultimately safer. On climbs with a long dry trail to approach I'll do most of the approach in a pair of lightweight running shoes or approach shoes, then switch into my boots once I hit snow. I've gotten tendonitis in my Achilles before doing long trails in heavy boots and for me, the comfort of walking in running shoes more than makes up for the weight penalty. |
|
Weight in the pack matters a lot, mid GTX approach shoes are heavy. When you inevitably get some snow above the ankle in the afternoon or plunge in a moat they never dry out either. |
|
I have those Sportiva Tx4 boots, they are amazing for summer mountaineering and transitioning from snow to rock on long alpine traverses etc... used them up to 5.8 and wore crampons for some 50 degree front pointing and felt great about them. Feet stayed dry in the snow (slushy but no real post-holeing) , the smear really well and are decent for lower angle edging, and hardly noticeable in the pack compared to a mountain boot. Anything harder than 5.8 on lead and I was still happy to have rock shoes but they climbed better than expected. |
|
Dallin Carey wrote: I don't think its available in North America yet but the new Scarpa Ribelle Tech looks like it might fit your bill. Little $$$ though. I’ve seen these in person. They are pretty effing sweet. There is also this: salomon.com/us/product/s-la… |
|
Jonathan Croom wrote: For the most part I'm thinking about routes that would be technical rock, maybe with snow travel on the approach, but not much if any climbing in cramponsFor objectives like this, is something really wrong with your current setup of regular approach shoes and aluminum crampons? That would be my likely choice, given your description of routes. If there is only "maybe" snow and no crampon climbing, a mountaineering boot (even a 3/4 shank) doesn't really make sense. If you really need a high top and water proof membrane, consider a lightweight hiking boot or something like a TX4 mid ($$), but these both may be unnecessary. I'll second Nick's comment, you'd probably get a lot better feedback if you gave more info about where and when you'll be climbing. You also said last year you "suffered" but give no information about what that means. Did you suffer because your feet got wet? Shoes too hot and sweaty? Too heavy in your pack? Too light for kicking steps? Depending on how you define "suffering" you might get opposite recommendations. |
|
Well since at least a couple people want a story, here it is. Last summer I climbed couloir in leather approach shoes which quickly got soaked. Weather was good, but even layered up and moving my toes were going numb. I ended up switching between two wet pairs of wool socks and taking breaks to thaw out my feet. In my defense, I was planning on climbing a low fifth class route and changed plans after I got to the base. My very cold and wet feet were luckily the only problem that day. I'm definitely less experienced with snow in summer conditions rather than winter conditions and gear. When I had left the car, I decided to take comfy rock shoes just because I might go faster in them while soloing, and leather approach shoes, which I figured would stay dryish for the bit of snow I'd have to cross. If I had known I'd climb the couloir, which I had considered, I had very light synthetic approach shoes for the trail, then Nepal Cubes for the snow (a bit warm, but it's what I had). I was kinda kicking myself for having not brought the other combo, but at the end of the day I felt pretty good and moved fairly quickly which made me think about the benefits of reducing the weight on your feet. |
|
If you aren’t happy hiking around in the Nepal Cubes, you probably wouldn’t be significantly more happy in the Trangos. They are definitely easier to walk in, but between a trail shoe and a mountain boot, they are definitely on the mountain boot side. On the other hand, you may really like them! Have you managed to try on a pair at a store? |
|
Scarpa Charmoz or the 5.10 Camp 4 Mid GTX might fit the bill. Cgharmoz have hardly any insulation, waterproof, suprirsingly rugged for a sythetic boot, stiff but still walkable, and has a heel welt for pons. I picked up a used pair here at a really good price and use them for anything in the mountains that won't require an insulated boot. For that I have my Phantom 6000s. |
|
Jonathan, that scenario you laid out is quite a bit different than what you first described. If you're going to be pounding up a snowy couloir without much (or any) technical rock climbing, a 3 season mountaineering boot (Trango, Charmoz, etc.) is probably the right choice. |
|
Dallin Carey wrote: I don't think its available in North America yet but the new Scarpa Ribelle Tech looks like it might fit your bill. Little $$$ though. Backcountry has them in stock for 25% off plus 9% Active Junky rebate today. I've got a pair on the way. The Salomon S-lab XA Alpine is really soft for an approach shoe, even if they are designed to take crampons. They are basically nothing more than the S-lab Ultra Trail with an integrated gaiter. They are super comfy for winter running, though |
|
Listen to Kyle. |
|
Brian Abram wrote: Please throw up a review once you get a chance to use them. One of these days I need to find a replacement for my rebel carbons (wore holes through the toes eventually). That was an amazing boot for capability on rock and steep ice, but something a hair more flexible still would be nice. |
|
I'm hoping I'm able to attach my G20s to them somehow. Someone at UK Climbing told me the C2N converter bail worked to attach their G20s to double boots |
|
Briggs Lazalde wrote: XA Alpine vs Guide Tennie stiffness. Bonus shot of my crotch in running shorts |
|
Brian Abram wrote: Are those new Tennies? Because mine started out that way and are now just as soft as a trail runner. |
|
I really like the scarpa zodiac tech, I use it for a lot of shoulder season snow stuff. I bet its slightly stiffer than the tx4 but I have climbed mellow rock in it and it was fine. Edges really well and takes a semi automatic crampon |
|
Sean Hoffecker wrote: They don't have much use, honestly. Maybe 10 miles. The XA Alpines have maybe 50 miles. The XA Alpines still started out softer. |