What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering

?  question
isn't it possible (then) to fix these distortions.  from a total n00bs POV this seem dangerous to me.  

Spencer Perry wrote: I feel like the Burn is definitely not as sandbagged as many other routes at Seneca.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned Midterm (5.10b) at Arch Rock...took about everything out of me just to get to the top. Felt so much harder than any other Valley 5.10 I have gotten on.

You are right, Seneca is loaded with bags. Climb and Punishment, Castor/Pollux, SSS, all examples of Seneca bagging. For whatever reason that 10 feet of finger crack with minimal feet on the Burn always seemed like a lot more than 5.8 to me. Man I miss that place.

Bat Crack, Intersection Rock, Jtree.  That 5.5 felt like a 5.10-11 and almost broke me.  I may have gotten too deep in the crack but regardless it’s hella bagged.  Also pretty consistantly bagged for an older Josh route.

jason oliphant wrote: ?  question
isn't it possible (then) to fix these distortions.  from a total n00bs POV this seem dangerous to me.  

Well some just have to do with certain areas that are graded a little stiff and you need to realize that when traveling somewhere new you should downshift a grade or two while becoming familiar with that area. In other cases you just need to learn that certain first ascentionist and/or time periods resulted in routes that were graded tougher; all information provided in a decent guidebook. To "fix" these route grades can result in under appreciation for the level the first ascentionist was climbing at the time as they were putting up 10b's in hiking boots and calling them 5.8. If you do your homework you should have a good idea what you are up against before roping up.

Mother #1, 5.7, Vedauwoo.

Dolphin 5.7 J-Tree

Another vote for Kor-Ingalls 5.9, Casleton

....maybe I just suck at offwidth

Pitch 1 of Mars Attacks in Sedona and its only getting harder

matt swaim wrote: Dolphin 5.7 J-Tree

Another vote for Kor-Ingalls 5.9, Casleton

....maybe I just suck at offwidth

Leave OW grades alone. Everybody who needs to knows and it’s fun to watch the uninitiated quickly learn when they pay in blood and sweat.

Most Devil's Lake moderates.  But this one was my first good "whip."

OK... I’ll toss this out there: False Classic Corner. Josh.

GB says 5.8 ...... seconds before I went flying... I remember thinking “where the F are the holds?”

And Seneca rocks.... back in the day any climber who called Seneca home had a huge inferiority  complex - even worse than Colorado boys.

So whenever they traveled to Yosemite or anyplace in California they needed to downgrade All climbs, just to feel good.

Example: When Herb L and Eve moved here one of the first places they visited was the Needles.
Herb looked at the yet unclimbed line that would become Egor Unchained. He immediately jumped on it and did the FA. Herb called it a “5.6 maybe 5.7”......with a straight face. 

Brent Butcher wrote: 1st pitch of after six in Yosemite. The so called "worlds hardest 5.6!" Felt more like 5.8 or 5.9

It wasn't sandbag till the tree fell out. Lazy Bum in Yose. Fingerlock at Sugarloaf. Surrealistic Pillar at Lover's Leap. 

Haven't seen El Burro V3 in Hueco on the list. I prefer sport routes but live close to Hueco so I will frequent and the guidebook is quite accurate in the v3 to v9 climber challenge for this problem.

John Clark wrote:

It wasn't sandbag till the tree fell out. Lazy Bum in Yose. Fingerlock at Sugarloaf. Surrealistic Pillar at Lover's Leap. 

I definitely sandbagged myself onto Fingerlock when I was still very new to trad. It's a heady lead for a budding 5.10- trad climber!

Peter Foster wrote:

I definitely sandbagged myself onto Fingerlock when I was still very new to trad. It's a heady lead for a budding 5.10- trad climber!

That was an early 5.10 for me too. Shimmy a tree to a blind nut placement into an engaging crux. Test piece for sure.

Umph Slot, 5.8, The Dome, Boulder Canyon. 5.8 in my ancient BC guide, but 10+ on MP :-/

Colonel Mustard wrote:

That was an early 5.10 for me too. Shimmy a tree to a blind nut placement into an engaging crux. Test piece for sure.

Yeah, I thought being a solid 5.11 yose climber would have made 10b in Tahoe feel like a warmup...lol

Double Chin, Gunks, 5.5.  Of all of the gunks ratings that make me shake my head, Double Chin is by far the most out of touch with reality.  Yeah Coex feels a lot harder, Modern Times or Absurdland might be a grade off or need a +, but Double Chin is just insane for the grade.  Just walking down the carriage road I've seen three people hanging or being lowered before the top because they couldn't finish.  
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106133896/double-chin

eli poss wrote:

1. Speedway Boogie at Leda, Chattanooga

Speedway Boogie is a great 5.7+ if you don't count the 5.9+ climbing on polished feet to the first bolt

Anything v4 or under in squamish. Not U.S., but close.

I am sure there are more sandbagged regions that I haven't been to, but Oompa at 10.a is the most sandbagged that I've climbed in the red.