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lead rope solo review of wild country revo

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
Jon LostVegan wrote:

 I’m sure if they kept-up with the design it would be less than half the size these days. Look at the old grigri, or the beiners we used to use in the 80’s/90’s compared to new models.

Looking at the design I don't believe that would be the case as the drum diameter would appear to be a pretty crucial design parameter relative to it actually locking up.
Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25
Jeff constine wrote: Oh to have some fun! lol Cuz peeps are so crazy on here.

Well that’s the pot calling the kettle black!

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
Healyje wrote: Looking at the design I don't believe that would be the case as the drum diameter would appear to be a pretty crucial design parameter relative to it actually locking up.

Additionally, it seems like the rope is a way more integral part of the engaging action than with i.e. a GriGri or an ATC. The wide variety of modern ropes makes me think it's unlikely that a new version of the SP will be released. The testing involved would be pretty costly.

Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110
Jeff constine wrote:
A gri gri will have to do till I get my hands on a REVO.

Selling my Revo for $150 shipped. 

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
Ryan McDermott wrote:

Selling my Revo for $150 shipped. 

I also would be willing to purchase a Revo for $144.95 from REI and have it shipped to you for a $5 fee.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

You could if it weren't back ordered 2-3 months everywhere and that's probably optimistic guessing.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423

Still, it seems a bit opportunistic to sell it for more than MSRP.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
David Kerkeslager wrote: Still, it seems a bit opportunistic to sell it for more than MSRP.

When you factor in the shipping cost, the guy is probably breaking even or even losing a little bit of money if shipping is more than $5, which is probably will be. He's probably effectively selling it for less than MSRP, and if you count tax then quite a bit less than what he paid for it.

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Not that anyone should care, but I also prefer a gri gri for lead rope soloing. Having a backpack of rope is a deal breaker for me - major suck in chimneys, mega flares, many roofs etc.

Adding a microtrax to aid in rope management I've found to be key. Cutting the usual tab and being particular about rope selection helps immensely too.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
rkrum wrote: Not that anyone should care, but I also prefer a gri gri for lead rope soloing...Cutting the usual tab and being particular about rope selection helps immensely too.
Did that for about a decade before the Eddy came out - would never consider going back to it.
rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Ever try it with the "modern" crop of thin ropes? Just curious. Using a 9.2 mammut right now with mine and it's a night and day difference vs the handful of ropes in the 9.5-9.7 range I tried before.

One thing that does annoy me is back up knots, which I still consider mandatory (for my level of risk acceptance) with this set up. That aspect of eddy is a definite plus.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

I haven't, might consider going down to a 9.6, but would be quite uncomfortable on the catching falls versus streaming rope front below that - I currently use a Maxim Glider 9.9 with the Eddy and it's pretty flawless and trouble-free and that's because the rope path through the Eddy is the reverse of the grigri.

The backup knot deal isn't tied to the device, but to the human - you can use or not use them with any of the devices, I just choose not to use them.

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

Gotcha.

I agree to a certain extent re: back up knots tied to the user, not necessarily the device. I choose to use back up knots with a skinny rope and gri gri since I've found it seems to be easier to induce one particularly problematic failure mode with a skinny rope - partially unlocking a locked gri gri, then weighting the device again and, well, quickly going either to the end of your rope or back up knot. There is also the usual possibility of pinning the cam down in a fall, etc. That doesn't appear to be a concern with the eddy. IE, from what I can tell, an eddy w/out back up knots has less ways of trying to kill you vs a gri gri w/out knots.

Edit: I've only played around with a friend's eddy, never actually owned one. So the above may be little more than just speculation on my part. Obviously you've got much more experience with probably both of these devices than I do. Also, for clarification, the main appeal of the gri gri is not wearing a backpack of rope (I use a microtrax on a sling off a gear loop on my harness to keep the rope weight off the gri gri, it's a miserable set up without this). The way the rope runs through the eddy seems brilliant if you're backpacking rope, but not so much if you're streaming rope in front of you. Is my impression here correct?

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,718
Ryan McDermott wrote:

Selling my Revo for $150 shipped. 

I'll sell my purple vergo (lightly used) for 275, and a brand new gold one for 500. They're pre-recall. 

Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110
eli poss wrote:

When you factor in the shipping cost, the guy is probably breaking even or even losing a little bit of money if shipping is more than $5, which is probably will be. He's probably effectively selling it for less than MSRP, and if you count tax then quite a bit less than what he paid for it.

That's right. You can get a fully functioning Revo now, or you can wait indefinitely for WC to re-release the same thing (likely without the pointless latch that comes undone on the original model). 

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
rkrum wrote:I choose to use back up knots with a skinny rope and gri gri since I've found it seems to be easier to induce one particularly problematic failure mode with a skinny rope - partially unlocking a locked gri gri, then weighting the device again and, well, quickly going either to the end of your rope or back up knot. There is also the usual possibility of pinning the cam down in a fall, etc. That doesn't appear to be a concern with the eddy. IE, from what I can tell, an eddy w/out back up knots has less ways of trying to kill you vs a gri gri w/out knots.
Yes, a rope that skinny is a problem and the reason you're using one that skinny is to overcome the problems associated with the rope path of the grigri being backward from what you want. Unfortunately, that introduces the new problems you mention. You gain in movement but have to mitigate the increased risk.

rkrum wrote:
Also, for clarification, the main appeal of the gri gri is not wearing a backpack of rope (I use a microtrax on a sling off a gear loop on my harness to keep the rope weight off the gri gri, it's a miserable set up without this). The way the rope runs through the eddy seems brilliant if you're backpacking rope, but not so much if you're streaming rope in front of you. Is my impression here correct?
No, it's the opposite - the Eddy actually works best with fewer errant lockups if the rope is just streaming down from it, but man I hate climbing that way and much prefer having it in a pack. But having it in a pack means you always have to ensure you keep a loop of free rope out so it hangs below the device otherwise anytime the rope goes straight from the pack to the Eddy it's going to remain locked until you re-establish a loop of slack below the device and clear the lock.
MischaHY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Used this in Spain for a route and took a few practice falls with backup knot. Underneath the bolt was great and it locked instantly - over the bolt (feet just below) I managed to hit my backup knot 4m below - need to test the limits in a safe environment to get a realistic understanding of the capabilities - probably with a backup rope and then take some bigger whippers. Rope feeding etc worked fine although it does need to be paired with a micro-traxion to take the weight off as with the silent partner.

Assuming the device can be proven to catch bigger falls reliably I see no reason why it couldn't be a game change for rope soloing. I'll report back when I've had chance/motivation to test this out as soloing isn't really a focus right now. Something I must say is that the catch is relatively harsh so if used above more marginal gear you'd probably want a good bouncy rope and some screamers to take the force out. 

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
MischaHY wrote:
Used this in Spain for a route and took a few practice falls with backup knot. Underneath the bolt was great and it locked instantly - over the bolt (feet just below) I managed to hit my backup knot 4m below...
Well, that sounds a bit less than promising out of the gate, but I sure appreciate the report of your experience with it. While I'd for sure be up for any incremental gains the Revo might offer, the Eddy already was a huge game changer for me and, like with the SP, I remain somewhat skeptical of any device with a concealed locking mechanism. Definitely a "we'll see" sort of deal for me at this point.
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
Healyje wrote: [...] like with the SP, I remain somewhat skeptical of any device with a concealed locking mechanism.

Could you elaborate on your thinking a bit here? Is it that you are worried something inside it will break and you won't be able to tell?

I'm curious because in my test falls the SP worked quite well. The one I'm using is quite old, manufactured by Wren before Rock Exotica bought the IP.
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674
No gear is better.

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