Historic / Collectable Yosemite bolt hangers for sale / trade

1. The Nose, El Capitan (1958). 3/8” Star Dryvin bolt with homemade hanger. This is the only piece in this collection of old bolts that is super rare. Nose bolts are hard to come by, and this one, if not original, is pretty darn close. I replaced it at the base of the Great Roof pitch. Warren Harding, or one of his many partners, placed this bolt.

2. Tissack, Half Dome (1974). ¼” bolt in home made angle-iron hanger. Tissack challenged an older Robbins, who did not want to place so many bolts. Robbins and partner Don Peterson used a variety of conventional and home made bolt hangers on the climb.

3. Grape Race, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made ring-angle piton hanger. Super classic, old school setup. Placed by Charlie Porter

4. Grape Race, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made angle-iron hanger. Charlie Porter placed this bolt.

5. North Face of Higher Cathedral Spire (1961). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in aluminum Dolt hanger. This is the classic hardware of the early 60s – aluminum bolt hangers made by climber Bill ‘Dolt’ Feurer, and soft sleeved, nail-in bolts. Tom Frost and Royal Robbins placed this bolt.

6. Chouinard – Herbert, Sentinel (1962). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in home made aluminum hanger with Yvon Chouniard’s initals etched in the hanger.

7. The Prow, Washington Column (1969). ¼” bolt in home made aluminum hanger. Royal Robbins and Glen Denny placed this bolt on the first ascent of the Prow.

8. West Buttress, El Capitan (1963). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in smooth, home made aluminum hanger. West Buttress was the third route established on El Cap. Layton Kor and Steve Roper placed this bolt.

9. Lost World, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made piton hanger. This is a classic bolt from the golden era – a simple hole drilled in an ring-angle piton made a quick bolt hanger.

10. Tissack, Half Dome (1974). ¼” bolt in cool, bent iron (strong!) home made hanger. Tissack challenged an older Robbins, who did not want to place so many bolts. Robbins and partner Don Peterson used a variety of conventional and home made bolt hangers on the climb.

I have a ton of this stuff, so will probably add to this post if it generates some interest. (Also still have signed quickdraw from Adam Ondra Dawn Wall, and same quickdraw from Tommy and Kevin Dawn Wall).

Thanks!

Erik Sloan

Yosemitebigwall.com - RockClimbYosemite.com

This is pretty interesting stuff.  Have you contacted Patagonia and offered them old bolts for their historical archive?  I saw a thread on supertopo showing their nut collection.  They put some effort into it.

I'd be psyched to get this stuff in some collections!....I have a lot more, lol. 

This is awesome Erik. Quite a story of hitory. 

Donate it all to Ken Yeager for the Yo Exhibit.

bruno-cx wrote:

Anyone else notice the neglected cam on the bedroom floor? 

Lol I saw that and all I could think is *A wild C4 appears*

Lol, actually not a neglected cam - it was left broken in Silent Line in Ribbon Fall when a block shifted and crushed it. We climbed past the block and then it fell off the cliff, so this crushed gold camalot was in the bin with the old bolts, haha....things you collect while climbing

Everyone is interested in the NOse stuff, so I'll say $175 + shipping for any piece not from the Nose. And here is all that I have from the Nose, if you're looking for something different:

Im  interested. Can you provide documentation, even heresay, that shows what bolt came from what pitch?If so, Im ready to deal.

I have date-stamped photos from the majority of routes that I replaced bolts on. Hit me up at erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Thanks for your interest gang! I still have a ton of these bolts, so hit me up if you're interested at erik@yosemitebigwall.com

I'm curious as to how "right of ownership" or more aptly "right to sell" the pictured artifacts was obtained.

Is it implied upon removal? 

Anyone who buys this stuff will create future demand.......

Hi John,

I spent the last twenty years replacing bolts in Yosemite, the result of which is that I have a ton of old, very cool looking bolts. I've donated many to various organizations, but there are still a lot, haha, so just trying to clean out my closet. For me, there are still so many bolts to replace, and a million other stewardship projects to go in Yosemite, so getting these into the hands of people that will appreciate them is just my effort toward being able to help out more in the future. 

Erik

Rockclimbyosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com

Some feedback from folks who got bolts - would love to get rid of more of these, lol, there are only so many old bolts a person needs, haha,........ and I have hundreds:

We got our stuff today.... Super RAD! Thanks for the extra leepers. What a cool thing that these came off the first ascent Tis-sa-sak and by Royal.. very cook Erik, Thank you!!!

Got my bolts from Erik Super Cool. My 11yr old is reading Royal Robbins "To Be Brave" and was super stoked that he was holding a bolt that Royal had placed. Thanks Erik for putting these out here for us to get! Awesome that you are replacing old sketchy hardware as well.. Thanks man!! 

Sent a message about Robbins bolts through your website about a week ago and haven’t heard back. Let me know if there is a better way to communicate with you. 

Selling "historic" bolts to those with expendable income, adding legitimacy to this endeavor by claiming you've spent 20 years replacing bolts?  Jesus.  Now I've seen it all.

Lot of this stuff around.  Very cool to put it in a museum!  Anyone know who did this?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111626530

Thanks,  Roy

Roy Suggett wrote: Lot of this stuff around.  Very cool to put it in a museum!  Anyone know who did this?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111626530

Thanks,  Roy

You are a criminal.  Those are not your bolts to sell.  That is theft from a national park of historic value.  Should go to the park archives or museum collector, like Ken Y.  

Contact those you've sold to, refund the money and return the bolts to the public.  Those are not yours!