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Stuff you don't NEED, learn from our mistakes
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What did you buy early on that you thought you needed, but ended up either useless or unnecessary? Hoping we can save noobs some $$$ I'll start: Two way radios for multi pitch climbing. When my partner and I started doing multi pitch routes we recognized an issue with communication around corners and below roofs, etc.. The first thought was to get some radios, but quickly learned they can't get around the corners any better than our voices. Rope tugs have proved to be the answer and they are free fifty free. |
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A Grigri |
OrganicChemistry wrote: Meh.. Not absolutely necessary but pretty freaking great. I would say.. Extremely aggressive shoes. You aren't going to get the full benefit of the shoes on easy and moderate routes you'll be climbing. You'll just be tearing up a pair of expensive shoes. |
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A figure 8. Learning how to rappel with the boy scouts, I thought this was the only way to do it. Then I learned that your trusty ATC can do it just fine, and it's lighter. Or you can ascend to Munter level for further weight savings! Or a piss-ton of lockers. I was in the mindset that if I really needed a piece to hold, it needed a locker. Now I only carry 4. |
OrganicChemistry wrote: Interesting, is this in context of lead belaying specifically? I actually use my Grigri a lot for belaying the second up while attached to the anchor. I've considered a tube device with guide mode, but then again, more gear... Thinking about this a bit more, I would probably recommend noobs hold off on a Grigri initially so they learn how to belay properly from the start, but I still use mine in certain instances. |
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Hexes. Placed them often my first year and now I almost never rack them. I disagree with the Grigri. I love mine and use it all the time. |
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Figure 8. Hexes. Trango Alpine Equalizer. |
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Belay devices. Use a hip belay you gumbies. |
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Any belay device that's not a GriGri. |
AndrewArroz wrote: If this happened, my reply would have been different |
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I second the overly-aggressive shoes comment. Tight means snug but too snug is dumb. It's just not worth the pain. If you absolutely have to take your shoes off at each belay, they're probably too tight. Trying to redpoint your hardest little clip-up? Sure, go as tight as you want. But also invest in some shoes that you can wear all day and still crank pretty hard. |
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A dedicated tether, or PAS thong. Just use the rope or slings already on your harness... |
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I'm hesitant to say PAS, but I don't think I would buy one again if I had the chance. You should invest in some slings and can use those to anchor in, in addition to the rope clove hitched as a backup. |
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Hexes. |
Ryan Maitland wrote: Great minds...? We literally typed that at the same time it appears. |
pga26 wrote: Indeed! Thankfully I never bought one, but have many friends that use them to my chagrin. A friend last weekend was sketched out by my use of a dyneema runner as my rappel extension vs his PAS, as "it looked so thin". It's all the same. |
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Hexes for sure are pointless. hard to say what was a waste of money. Sling can work for PAS, ATC is $12 over $100 Gri Gri, but I love both of them and wouldnt use the other now that i own it. AGREE with lockers, i own way too many now and only need 4-6, instead of the dozen i own that get no use. Go cheaper on shoes and harness ... everything else is worth the money |
jg fox wrote: I climb on occasion with an old skool dood who looks at our tubers with disdain while he hip belays and raps using four ancient oval biners. |
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Anti cross loading belay lockers. They are a pita and not necessary. Get a nice big autolocking hms biner (triple action or magnetron. Not dual action like twistlock, you are better off with a screw gate in that case) and call it good. |
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Here we go................... Tri-cams |
