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Sport anchors

Original Post
Kevin Marsh · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 20

 when using two opposing quick draws as an anchor do you prefer gates in/towards each other or gates out/away from each other

z t · · Spokane, WA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,112

Gates down and out, the idea is that the rope will get pulled toward the spine.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 27,827

If I used 2 quick draws, I would put the gates opposed, UNLESS by doing so one gate could be pressured open against the rock when the system is weighted.  Then I would use a locker for that biner. (by replacing the quick draw with an "alpine draw" that has a locker on at least one end.) 

However, I almost always use two alpine draws with two lockers to run  the rope through, maybe even locker(s) for the end of the draw at the bolts too. 

Perhaps a bit of "overkill" but "Why Not?"  

ps- What Turner states about pulling the spine towards the rock is the essential thought of "UNLESS ...could be pressured open"; but wouldn't the gate position be better if the 2 biners were gate UP and out??? 

 

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I prefer gates in. Does not matter however. 

rees labree · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 314

I'm a big outward and opposing guy

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

If you have a couple of dedicated anchor draws with lockers on the rope end, you don't have to worry about orientation. 

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

If you face gates in the carabiners can become clipped to each other, probably not deadly but not ideal either. Gates out.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
FrankPS wrote:

If you have a couple of dedicated anchor draws with lockers on the rope end, you don't have to worry about orientation. 

Yep, and all the wear gets taken by those lockers instead of being spread out among your draws, slowly wearing them down over the years to useless crap. If you have people toproping a lot on the routes you lead, consider using steel lockers that never wear out and won't make your rope black. 

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70
DrRockso wrote:

If you face gates in the carabiners can become clipped to each other, probably not deadly but not ideal either. Gates out.

Well as long as we are considering random circumstances facing them outwards poses the chance of one of the carbiners clipping to the other as well. 

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 635

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Peter Foster wrote:

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

That is great! We want our pieces of gear to work as a team.

I give my gear vacation time between work assignments. They are thankful and refreshed when it's time to go to work.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

Well as long as we are considering random circumstances facing them outwards poses the chance of one of the carbiners clipping to the other as well. 

No, it's not random and I've seen it happen on several occasions with inward facing carabiners, does not happen with outwardly facing ones. If it's not making sense go set it up?

z t · · Spokane, WA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,112
Peter Foster wrote:

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

End of thread.

Hamilton Kibbe · · Somerville, MA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 71

As with any gate-related question, there is only one true way:

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739
Hamilton Kibbe wrote:

As with any gate-related question, there is only one true way:

Brilliant! Now I'm picturing Finkle's mom (portrayed by the late Alice Drummond) offering cookies, in the shape of little carabiners. "Gates out!"

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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