5.9 Chimneys in the Northeast

Does anyone know of any 5.9 chimneys in the northeast area? Trad preferably, but sport will do. I rarely ever get to climb a chimney and I'm heading to RR in a month and the first objective is to climb Epinephrine. Some practice would help. 

Thanks!

I make it a point to avoid chimneys but below are a few that might fit the bill. I do think most folks figure out Epinephrine's chimneys on the job--there's only so many techniques that can be employed :) Also not sure how much fun these will be in February/March but good on you for the pre-season rock stoke!

Touch of Class P3

Hard Times P3

Giants Chimney

Miss Bailey (not 5.9 but still engaging)

Hart times and touch of class are going to be way harder and scarier than anything you will find in red rocks,,,

North Conway area has a couple of 5.8 chimneys that come with a little history. 

Yikes!  It's a bit cold in the northeast to get out and train for a Red Rock chimney this month.  

For what it's worth, Epi only has a couple chimneys and they're though but way easier than many chimneys elsewhere.  The smooth sandstone is not very abrasive and it's nice & clean.  

Check out Plumber's Crack (5.9/V0) when you get there, a lot of people do that as prep for Epinephrine's chimneys.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Hart times and touch of class are going to be way harder and scarier than anything you will find in red rocks,,,

dunno...I found the Epinephrine chimneys harder and scarier than Touch of Class.  Ventre de Boeuf at the Gunks is worthwhile, though not exactly the same sort of climbing.  I found the normal start scary and backed off.  The direct start has a short 5.10 offwidth section that you can easily pull through with big cams, and gets you to the fun 5.9 slot at the top.  Not nearly as good of training as the Adirondacks, but perhaps more realistic in February.

There's also this at Red Rock: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106516267/sport-chimney

But the chimneys really aren't anything you won't be able to figure out. They will be a little scary and physical if you haven't done much chimneying, but you'll get up them if you're leading 10b trad. Climb it with a capable partner so you can switch leads and take a break. Second chimney pitch is the crux. Last chimney pitch is run out but a lot easier because the rock has a lot of features there. Make sure you locate the bolt halfway up the last chimney and aim for that (you'll stay towards the mouth of the chimney). Some people burrow way deep and then run into a dead end as it gets too tight.

Epinephrine would be 5.7 in the NE. Try Rat crack in CT

Smokestack is a 5.9+ sport route at Rumney that starts off in a chimney for about half the route.

As an ex west coaster who's climbed epi I was impressed by some of the lines in the new! At the gunks I really enjoyed The Last Frontier because you've got to be able to jam and it starts with a chimney 

Giants Chimney is currently very loose, dirty and wet and probably r/x, and probably has a bunch of ice in it now, so until I get my butt up there and retro it, it is probably not what you are looking for.

This thing in Vermont:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107560565/the-lorax

Nobody has mentioned the chimneys at Peterskill in the Gunks. I haven't climbed Epinephrine, but Santa's Escape at Peterskill looks to be a similar width (the width varies the deeper you go, so you could practice different sizes).  No gear really, but easy enough TR setup. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105910444/santas-escape

Great chimney 5.7 at the gunks was a lot of fun

There is a 5.9  chimney  @  summit cliff  at rumney, don't remember  the name. Also  a bunch  of chimneys @patuckaway.

The green building at MIT has two 200 ft chimneys that are rated 5.7 in "Bouldering Boston by Bus" that would provide excellent endurance training. I regretted not having spent enough time on it before climbing epinephrine this spring.

Decent chimney technique will make Epi easier, but a decent portion of the chimney has nice #3 - #5 cracks at the back. If you are solid on corner cracks in those sizes it will make the chimneys feel pretty chill.

Short section but there’s raven crack on cannon.

Crakatoa and veal in a blender at the gunks, on the mental block below nosedive 

"Squeezebox" at "Greens Cliff" in NH, 2 pitches, looks eff'n awesome.  I haven't done, but I hope to checkout this weekend. Anyone been out that way?