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Go fund me for new routes? Not replacing anchors?

Weird... isn't that like a hobby? 

Any specific lines you're eyeing right now?

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Yep! Got a bunch of lines scouted out. We just need to go bolt them!

I mean where

Lurker wrote:

Don't see anything wrong with this.  He puts up new routes, new bolted routes cost money. I would be more than happy to accept donations to offset those costs.  

Me too, I would like someone to pay for gas and my burrito as well. I would not say no to any payments for my outdoor activities.

GDavis wrote:

Me too, I would like someone to pay for gas and my burrito as well. I would not say no to any payments for my outdoor activities.

Sure, I'll chip in, if your use of gas and burrito contributes to the climbing community. Full disclosure - each year I donate/give/contribute a few hundreds of dollars for hardware maintenance in local areas - New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Mad River Gorge.

 From the go fund me page "new school philosophy to our bolt spacing"  As a matter of interest can this be explained?

I feel like you should concentrate on buying a new harness before buying some bolts... I'm guessing by now that thing is 100% backup slings haha

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Yeah normal Smith Rock bolting style can seem pretty spaced compared to other areas in the country. This is because the majority of those classic routes are on dead vert to slightly slabby walls with seemingly featureless walls. This allows for huge run outs with big exciting, but not dangerous falls. The walls were starting to develop seem to be more featured with more blockier shapes and some of the lines we’ve developed this past year seem to meander from side to side a bit. This is because the rock were developing is what was past over from prior route developers. Were picking through the scraps and sometimes the line needs to navigate around or sometimes through bad rock. Both of these instances, we are now deeming needing more bolts. We would rather put a bolt every 5’ through a questionable section, as opposed to the “old school” way of thinking of, if there’s big hold or it’s an easy section, run it out no matter what. Considering though how frail freshly cleaned holds can be, id rather slam in another bolt rather than risking a climber’s safety. That’s what we meant by new school bolting. If we can run it out and keep it exciting by Smith Rock standards (CLEAN FALLS) im all about it, but if it isnt safe, no matter if it’s 5.9 section on a 5.12 route, it’s getting a bolt added. 

Thank You.

I don't mind that he does it, he can bolt whatever he wants and if the community wants to pay for it, sweet. I just don't see putting up first ascents and developing as something you do for anybody but yourself, so it's weird to me to crowdsource it. 

^^^^

There's a bolt fairy? So if I leave a bolt under my pillow, in the morning it will be gone and there will be a quarter or dollar in its place? That is so cool.

I support the ACSD and the access fund and other organizations and participate in local bolt replacements and have established routes myself.

" I would argue that he is doing a service to the greater climbing community"

" That development would not have happened that fast had it not been for the support of the community and the money raised from last years bolt fund. "

Who are you asking, exactly? Is this consensus? This is a gym mentality and mind set, maybe that's what you need at Smith, I've never been, but Joshua Tree has 8,000 routes and is the busiest place to climb in winter and people have no trouble with finding routes to climb, they just climb the same classics. I'm sure he's doing good routes, at no time have I made any assumptions on things like that. Just not what I view as how climbing usually goes, well things must be different in smith...

Chris Hatzai wrote:

A gym metality and mind set? What are you talking about? 

Putting up well protected safe routes specifically for the masses - you're even getting paid to do it like a setter ;)

FrankPS wrote:

^^^^

There's a bolt fairy? So if I leave a bolt under my pillow, in the morning it will be gone and there will be a quarter or dollar in its place? That is so cool.

In that case, time to get choppin’

You can send cash to me via paypal at yosemiteerik@gmail.com

 Give Generously - We Love You!

 Woot Woot!
 Erik
 Yosemitebigwall.com

Obligatory reference.

jg fox wrote:

Obligatory reference.

He's just helping the community bro don't be a h8ter

Chris Hatzai wrote:

What you dont need to do is talk a bunch of crap when im trying to fund raise to put up more routes. Hopefully the opposed can see the benefit of having more routes to climb at a park starting to exceed it’s capacity on a regular basis (weekends here at the main wall feel more congested than ever). 

And to Gdavis, i wrote you an email trying to reason with you but i guess that didnt get through to you so i guess i reiterate what i wrote to you in email on here, after paging through the 800+ routes of 5.10 or EASIER you have ticked on your account, i suggested your time being better well spent trying to get stronger rather than talking a bunch of shit on the internet. I suggested he try a hang board and not the key board to work out those scrawny little fingers of his.. 

I am not sure how old you are, but this behavior of attacking someone back just because they attacked you is childish.
You don't like someone's opinion - critique it without resorting to personal attacks or playground language.

get a job hippy! do you want us to buy you your next drill too?

Is it really that clownish to want to treat the rock as a non-renewable resource (which it is) that doesn't need to be grid bolted? I get it, if people wanted to pay for my hardware to put up new routes i would probably take it. However, calling people's view clownish and bashing on someone that gave a fairly level headed response seems counter productive. There will always be differing viewpoints and you've just proven once again why dialogue is dead.

I would donate but.....

1. I'm not a local
2. I think some of the bolt money may go to the purple sticky.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114002745/do-you-get-intoxicated-before-climbing

Just sayin'..... ;)

Austin Goff wrote:

Is it really that clownish to want to treat the rock as a non-renewable resource (which it is) that doesn't need to be grid bolted? I get it, if people wanted to pay for my hardware to put up new routes i would probably take it. However, calling people's view clownish and bashing on someone that gave a fairly level headed response seems counter productive. There will always be differing viewpoints and you've just proven once again why dialogue is dead.

Shit has gotten all sorts of skewed. Chris isn't grid bolting anything and this isn't some sort of vanity project....dude is just amped and likes getting shit done. All this shit is coming from regions far from Smith and Oregon as a whole. Smith needs areas for the masses to spread out. It is the sole climbing destination for the entire state and the lower 1/4 of WA. Have you been there in the past 8-10 years when its in season or even on a weekend when its not? Someone up thread mentioned Jtree, the two areas couldn't really be much different from one another, one thing they do have in common are the crowds and thankfully in Josh all you have to do is walk around a dome to one of the other 8000 routes and enjoy solitude, Smith doesn't have that luxury.