Lets constructively discuss Newbie Trad videos.
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Occasionally get bored and go to youtube looking for some entertainment.... And am struck by time after time seeing Go-Pro vids of beginners making fundamental mistakes that could lead to accidents. The idea is to create a thread where the issues are constructively discussed, not a public shaming a la "hahah noobs yer gonna die!" but a constructive one where the mistakes are identified and discussed. And not rife with Dogma (ikr) but discussing clearly identifiable errors that there is large consensus are far less than ideal and not a hair splitting based on individual style. Maybe it would belong in the Beginner Forum. ur thoughts? YGD™, Harumpf™ in advance. For example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gMQ1q6M0Xo Fundamental mistakes in the anchor rigging in this vid. See if you can identify the mistake (s)? |
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Constructive public shaming? HAHA can’t wait! |
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Mark r wrote: Orly? Can you help a brother out and point me in the right direction? |
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I think that the other thread is mostly ha-ha look at those idiots and this is intended to critique unsafe practices. Maybe the title should be changed. I tried to deconstruct the anchor - it is a bit of a mess. It looks like 2 draws and the rope is tied to it as well. (I'm looking at 1:16. It seems to me (please correct me if I'm wrong.) that this would be a good place for the clove hitch anchor in this thread https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112835265/clove-hitch-climbing-anchor Digression - I do not understand the desire to document climbs. Watching most people climb is like watching paint dry Usually, my leads are long periods of me thinking about the move, running away and then crying while pulling the move. Not exactly the stuff of good film. |
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Deirdre wrote: Only one of the Bolts is tied into with significant extension in its connection to the other biner/bolt if the one tied into would fail (a sling seems to be into that biner he's clipped into. This is mostly a quibble as the bolts are new and should be sound. However, the other bolt has a sling on it as a "jesus piece/redirect" on the wrong side so the leader would fall across the belayer knocking him off his stance and maybe burning him with the rope....This needs to be anticipated before the leader leaves the belay (ideally the person building the anchor has this already thought out). The belayer should (ideally) be hanging out to the right with the jesus piece/redirect going off the left bolt so the belayer is free from the lead line when it comes down to the anchor in a fall. Took a look at the other thread (https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113931865/post-other-not-awesome-trad-videos-here) and it is definitely a shaming thread by the "cool kids"....harmless mostly of course. Definitely thinking of a more constructive thread that would identify and discuss errors in the hope of helping newbies. |
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Yeah, that anchor is whack. More importantly, though: why the hell is the leader wearing a pack?! Oh. That rhymed. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: The approach and the walk off? |
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Bill Kirby wrote: Obviously, but at the least he should have left it with the second. With proper planning they should have been able to break it down to one bag, which stays with the follower. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Obviously, Haha.. I remember when you first started climbing. Now you’re schooling me? I love it! :) Obviously you can also carry two packs too.. especially if the 5.6 climbing is moderate enough to the leader. I carry a pack while leading on long routes. Am I doing wrong? |
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Bill Kirby wrote: Hey old man, if you want to haul up extra crap then by all means do it, but I reserve the right to give you crap about it. ;) |
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Ted Pinson wrote: They did properly plan. Have you done this climb before? Good idea for a thread Tut. But you really should change the title to reflect the intent. |
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splitclimber wrote: Done. I wanted to kinda poll people first, we'll see how it goes. |
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King Tut wrote: You know there is porn on the internet to watch if you´re bored? |
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Jim Titt wrote: Quite a lot of it, actually... |
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King Tut wrote: Yes on 1 (very bomber) bolt tied in, as for the wrong side, probably b/c the leader though the route went up the right ridge initially.
This is a one day hike up the Half Dome (as easy as the climbing may be), not a 40 ft TR by the lake, not that I'd carry that much stuff. There comes a point where having the 2nd carry everything makes free climbing a chore rather than an enjoyment. |
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This anchor is way better. |
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Deirdre wrote: Stop stealing my beta |
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John Wilder wrote: The idea is to see (if) we can use some self restraint and keep it constructive. |
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bkozak wrote: Yep, as hard as I tried I could only see him clipped into one bolt and belaying off it on the first anchor (0:18) at the start. The draw between the two just goes to a loop of rope with no knot. At 3:05 that cam placement should be oriented in the direction of the load in a fall, not parallel. Most of the rest are similarly poorly placed.....:( |