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Shoes like the moccs for greek foot shape?
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Hello, my moccasyms recently broke down and I was looking to buy a similar pair of shoes. I have a greek foot shape (second toe slightly longer than big toe) and it has been very hard for me to find a pair of climbing shoes that fit me well. I wear a street shoe size of 8.5/EU 41 and have the moccs in 7.5/EU 40 (although after stretching they feel a bit larger than I would prefer); after much trial and error I realized that VERY assymtrical/narrow shoes like the La Sportia Miuras (laced version which are completely different from the velcro Miura VS) and the Tenaya Masais do not fit me well. However, after stretching out, my Moccs seems to have too much dead space in my heel area and also not edge super well (like all gym slippers). I was told that the remoras were slightly better in these aspects by someone, but I also do not have the ability to try it on anywhere near me. Therefore, I'm wondering if anyone can give me any (a lot of) information about any shoes that might fit like the moccs for a greek foot. Thanks! |
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Hope this helps you. Edit: La Sportiva Oxygym is another possibility. Although like the Tarantula/Tarantulace, it uses FriXion RS rubber. |
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Hey Ben, i face a similar issue finding shoes that fit my feet too. My method is a little different in that I don’t purposefully purchase shoes that match the shape of my toe box needs, but rather get shoes that are designed to stretch in these areas. Some shoes that absolutely don’t work for me are usually synthetic, as they have little to no stretch, or have a substantial cap over the toe as it doesn’t allow stretching wither. For instance the synthetic mocs do not work for me on any climb lasting longer than 45 mind but the regular leather ones do. Also, for the first year I recommend putting shoe trees in your shoes after climbing, and if necessary put the handle of some pliers in with the trees (on the top side near the toe box). If you’re not familiar with trees, they are typically made of wood or sometimes plastic and they are in the shape of your foot. You put them in the shoe and it expands causing stretching. I try to encourage stretching where I need it by marking the outside of the shoe where the toe presses and add extra material to push on top of the tree in that location. My street size - 13 us My shoes: 5.10 mocs (3 each) - size 11 La Sportiva Miura VS - size 12 Boreal Stinger - size 11 |
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The evolve addicts ended up being too narrow for me. I think my best plan right is is to buy a leather shoe that will stretch and just size it down enough. 1.5 sizes down is the most I can manage I think (I had 1 size down before), and even then my feet are kind of curved. |
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If you want a good edging shoe with the room for your 2nd toe, try to find a pair of Boreal Aces. There's a pair on MP now with the descriptor "nearly new" (or something to that effect). You may find my Aces ad from 4 days ago. Ignore it; we have the same size feet and so the pair I'm selling will be too big for you. |
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I will second on the Mythos: super comfy and stretchy symmetrical shoe. May not be enough of an edging shoe for your purposes, but perhaps if you buy small enough or use a slightly different technique they would work. I bought 2 sizes down (42 to my 44 street size), and they are still really comfortable. |
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I have a wide midfoot, wide forefoot, average heel, and Morton's toe. I use the FiveTen rogue (the most comfortable shoe of all time) as an every day gym shoe. One of my absolute favorites. The entire upper is unlined leather so it will stretch to fit almost any foot. The heel is very similar to the moccs (a bit sloppy, but hey, it's basically a Velcro slipper). I also use the sportiva testerossa for more aggressive climbs (sport and bouldering). The lacing down to the toe help expand out for those who have higher volume feet. They stretch out just enough to form to your feet. Enjoy! |
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Whether the rogues work for someone will depend a lot on foot shape and how extreme your Morton's Toe is. The rogues for me are too narrow, the heel is too large, and they are too asymmetrical such that when I try to downsize them to fill in the heel space, my second, third, and fourth toes become painfully curled under themselves. This is very typical of Five Ten shoes for me. The Mocassym is the only exception, but I still cannot wear them because the toe box is not tall enough for my toes. It squeezes down painfully on top of the toes. The bottom line is you have to get to a gear store to try on a bunch of different climbing shoes to see what fits your foot best. |
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Also with Morton's toe, wide forefoot, arthritis in my big toes, bunions for days... I really love Butoras in the wide fit. The Acro is the first aggressive shoe I've worn that doesn't make me want to die. Got a pair of Alturas in wide and love those as well. Might be worth a try. |
pat a wrote: I'm envious! I really wanted the wide Altura to fit me. The width was perfect, but the shoe is too asymmetrical. My second, third, and fourth toes were curling under themselves when heel space was eliminated. :( |
anotherclimber wrote: My toes do curl, but the unlined leather will keep stretching and stretching. By the time I wore one pair for 2 years, they ballooned out a full 3/4"over the rand rubber. I sized them only .5 below my street size for max comfort. But if the heel is too sloppy, there's not a lot you can do. |
Matt Desenberg wrote: Pretty sure you mean instinct. The inferno is a high altitude double plastic mountaineering boot. |
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Now that we have a panel of experts on the Greek physique, can anyone recommend some capris that'll make my butt look like Apollo's? |
Logan Peterson wrote: This will make your butt look like Apollo and fix your Mortons toe. |
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My problem is that my pinky toe is the longest and the only solution is to wear my shoes on the opposite feet. |
Matt Desenberg wrote: All Scarpa slipper or aggressive shoes fit this shape awesome. I tried everything when I started and climb mostly in Scarpa Dragos. They are super aggressive when your foot is not in them, but if you do not downsize a ton they flatten the second your foot is in them. I've climbed Yosemite slab and smeary slab in them very well. They smedge, rather than just edge, but hold an edge pretty well for how soft they are. The Instinct line will fit this foot shape really well, but not quite as well. So does the Stix/Booster S line if you can find those still. |
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Maybe the evolv addict? |
