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Water Knot in 11mm Sling

Original Post
Mitch Y · · Flagstaff · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 295

I have a 11mm x 240cm Nylon sewn sling and would like to cut it to a slightly shorter length to use as a quad anchor. Can I cut it, tie a water knot, and then isolate the knot in one of the loops on the ends?

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 91

if you are using it as a quad, then use a double fisherman instead.  The water knot has a tenancy to creep over time.

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Once you cut out a piece and use part of it to tie it back together you’re going to have an awfully small quad. 

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

I use a 240cm dyneema for a quad and the length seems good. You could also just tie an extra knot on one leg to shorten it a bit. Untie it when you need that little bit extra. 

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

An 11mm sling is going to be a really bulky quad.

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

You haven't been paying attention here. If you use anything other than the climbing rope for an anchor, you're gonna die.

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

I wouldn't ruin a perfectly good 240 sling. Use fig 8 or fig 9 instead of overhands to shorten it up. You can also clove to the bolts to take up some extra.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Mitch Y wrote:

I have a 11mm x 240cm Nylon sewn sling and would like to cut it to a slightly shorter length to use as a quad anchor. Can I cut it, tie a water knot, and then isolate the knot in one of the loops on the ends?

Don't cut it. Just triple it up (A "hexalette")

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Gunkiemike wrote:

Don't cut it. Just triple it up (A "hexalette")

That will be a big knot, but effective. 

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Eleven millimeter nylon? I've never seen a nylon sling narrower than 16mm...

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Mitch Y wrote:

I have a 11mm x 240cm Nylon sewn sling and would like to cut it to a slightly shorter length to use as a quad anchor. Can I cut it, tie a water knot, and then isolate the knot in one of the loops on the ends?

Is it nylon or dyneema? If it's dyneema you don't want to be tying knots in it to form the loop. 

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
John Wilder wrote:

And they don't make 11mm dyneema.

Low Bulk 11 Sling

DYNEEMA SLING 11 mm / C2001

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Jeremy B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
John Wilder wrote:

Fine. I stand corrected. Either way, he specifically said nylon.

True, but that doesn't mean we should actually believe him.

(He probably got his hands on this "Metolius Nylon Sling" from REI.)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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