International destination suggestions

Have 20 days at end of April beginning of May. Where are some solid places for multi pitch locales conveniently accessed. Affordability would be nice too. 

Cheers

T

You've posted this query in the "International" section so I presume that you are looking for suggestions outside of the US. Given that, it would help if you define your affordability criteria a bit more specifically, as most such international destinations (other than Canada and Mexico) will require flying--which likely will have a significant impact on costs. Your time slot also is a bit of an issue as late April/May is a transition season in many areas so that the areas that offer good climbing in winter (such as much of southern and central Spain) will probably be too warm while the mountain areas will likely still be in the throes of winter. A few places to consider however, are places such as Riglos and some of the other areas in Northern Spain, also some of the 'pre-Alpine' areas such as the Vercours, Verdon Gorge and other similar areas in France, places such as the Kaiser Mountains and nearby ranges in Austria, several similar areas in Northern Italy. None of these are 'cheap' options but not ridiculously expensive either. One good possibility is Croatia--Paklenica National Park has many good multi-pitch options, and there are other areas not far away. You have to fly there, but once in place the costs are quite reasonable. Some of the Mediterranean islands also have good multi-pitch options as well as single pitch sport crags, such as Sicily and Sardinia. The lower altitude areas will probably be a bit hot by that time of year but the multi-pitch routes are in more mountainous areas so might well  have more reasonable temperatures. Corscia is another such option.

You mean Trad or Sport or ??

Roughly what grades?

You ready to bring two ropes along with you?

kenr wrote:

Cheers

t

Alan Rubin wrote:

You've posted this query in the "International" section so I presume that you are looking for suggestions outside of the US. Given that, it would help if you define your affordability criteria a bit more specifically, as most such international destinations (other than Canada and Mexico) will require flying--which likely will have a significant impact on costs. Your time slot also is a bit of an issue as late April/May is a transition season in many areas so that the areas that offer good climbing in winter (such as much of southern and central Spain) will probably be too warm while the mountain areas will likely still be in the throes of winter. A few places to consider however, are places such as Riglos and some of the other areas in Northern Spain, also some of the 'pre-Alpine' areas such as the Vercours, Verdon Gorge and other similar areas in France, places such as the Kaiser Mountains and nearby ranges in Austria, several similar areas in Northern Italy. None of these are 'cheap' options but not ridiculously expensive either. One good possibility is Croatia--Paklenica National Park has many good multi-pitch options, and there are other areas not far away. You have to fly there, but once in place the costs are quite reasonable. Some of the Mediterranean islands also have good multi-pitch options as well as single pitch sport crags, such as Sicily and Sardinia. The lower altitude areas will probably be a bit hot by that time of year but the multi-pitch routes are in more mountainous areas so might well  have more reasonable temperatures. Corscia is another such option.

Thanks Alan, ill take a look into some of those places. 

There's so many good options in SouthEast France that it's hard to know where to start making recommendations.
Multiple lifetimes needed.

Likely same could be said of SouthWest France, but I don't know it.

Same for lots of places in Switzerland, but that tends to be more expensive.

Of course multiple lifetimes of areas and routes in Italy that fit.

Need to find some other way of choosing your destination(s).

Ken

kenr wrote:

There's so many good options in SouthEast France that it's hard to know where to start making recommendations.
Multiple lifetimes needed.

Likely same could be said of SouthWest France, but I don't know it.

Same for lots of places in Switzerland, but that tends to be more expensive.

Of course multiple lifetimes of areas and routes in Italy that fit.

Need to find some other way of choosing your destination(s).

Ken

seema like southern europe is the clutch destination geographically.  

Fun climbing under 5.10 is Arapalies. Though it’s kinda far. 

So i think we are going to go base out of germany as we have friends out there. I know its super far from croatia or southern france but gf is adamant we go visit them. Thoughts on long term car rentals or driving into croatia?

Driving from Germany to Croatia would be crazy since you´ll be going through the Dolomites, Arco etc and Austria, all of which have more multi-pitch routes than you could climb in a lifetime, then there are places like Finale to go to if the weather is truly aweful in the Dolomites and Arco (which is lower in altitude so generally better anyway). Austria has shedloads, the Zillertal being best known probably and could be o.k that time of year, I´ve never been there that early so can´t say.

Taghia in Morocco checks most of your boxes - cheap living once you get there, probably in ideal season then, long multi-pitch routes.  One drawback is that there are not too many options at 5.10 and below and I can't say that we were super thrilled with the type of climbing there either (very "sporto").  It is pretty though.

Never been but S. Korea looks like it offers some nice multi-pitch granite fun and I think shoulder seasons are best (?).

Maybe southern China - eg. Yangshuo (was there in  Sept. & weather was good; not sure about spring) or Li Ming.  A bit of upfront paperwork to get visas.

Namibia is perfect during that time (google Spitzkoppe).  Easy logistics, safe but maybe not the cheapest destination.

Got a lot of rain in Riglos during May but it might've been just bad luck.  In Europe, I'd go for some of the Mediterranean islands that time of year (Sardinia, Corsica).  Or I'd try Turkey (did they fix up the tourist visa spat already?).

Lots of options in the world (any time of the year) - imagination and $$ of course are your only limitations.

rock-fencer wrote:

So i think we are going to go base out of germany as we have friends out there. I know its super far from croatia or southern france but gf is adamant we go visit them. Thoughts on long term car rentals or driving into croatia?

Really depends on the company.  Some rental companies either don't allow taking a car into Croatia, or, charge a huge amount for it.  Some don't.  We rented a car in Venice and drove into Slovenia no problem (remember to stop at the border and get a sticker for your car, though).  Try pricing it out through several companies to see what the cost would be.  One thing I wouldn't care to do is get in a fender bender with a rental car that wasn't covered to be in Croatia...

Another option would be just to fly to Dubrovnik or Zagreb and rent a car there.

Corsica

Jim Titt wrote:

El Potrero Chico, Hidalgo, Mexico.  Multipitch sport.

We did something similar a few years back, but in the early fall. We got a long term rental from Alamo, which was 1,500 euro or so for 2 months, and did one week of Elbe sandstone, one week in the Frankenjura, two weeks in the Arco area, two weeks in Osp, and two weeks in Paklenica. It was easy, and as long as your rental is not a "premium" car, there are no issues with driving to Croatia. Driving from paklenica to the Czech border can be done in a long day. 

The Verdon, which you mentioned, is also amazing, but in April you may be getting the tail end of the "Paludismo" weather, which can be grim I hear. 

rock-fencer wrote:

While that is an excellent point. Last time i went to the swiss alps that early  it just rained perpetually on me. She is adamant that we go visit her friends. She wants to go to germany so it puts me in a bit of dilemma how i either get to verdon or croatia which is where i want to go. That being said i have 18-19 days so stops along the way are not excluded. 

Kinda depends on where in Germany, if it´s Hamburg then it´s a long way anywhere worth going to so it´s get on a plane, I live in Munich so Paklenika is a days drive, Dolomites 3 hours, Arco 4 hours and Verdon a fairly awful day and a half. Paklenika is good but not that amazing, Osp is nearer to Germany but France is generally better for everything, For multi-pitch places like Mont St Victoire or Chateauneuf les Martigues are worth going to.

Whats the international climbers meet at paklenica like? Super crowded. Is access to routes limited? Total shit show or would we still be able to get on some rock without long lines.

Cheers

T

Bangalore, India for multi pitch slabs