Easy crack
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I'm new to the trad game and would love to dial in my crack technique. Anyone have any suggestions for routes or areas with some easy to moderate cracks? I want to practice putting in gear and jamming. I live in Sacramento, and anything within a couple hours would be ideal. Bonus points for places accessible during the winter! |
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Hogs back at lovers leap has a variety of 5.4-5.6 low angle routes that are EASY climbing, easy approach. Weather depending of course but it’s been very dry there. Close to Sac. |
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Like Scottmx426 said, Hogs Back would be a great choice. If you want shorter and less committing stuff, Consumnes River Gorge in Placerville would also be a good option. There are some pretty good easy cracks there. Perfect climbing weather during the winter, but it does tend to get crowded. |
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Cosumnes is a quick drive and approach. You can set up TRs and run laps on Dinkum (fingers) and Test Piece (lieback, thin hands). Phantom Spires has a few crack routes in the 5.5-5.8 range and may be dry with the mild winter so far. Recommend a high clearance vehicle. |
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Right on! I did a couple of the easy routes at hogsback a few weeks back and that was the perfect intro to placing gear. That's the kind of stuff I'm looking for, and into the (well protected) 5.7-5.8 range. I'll have to check out consumnes, that sounds perfect. We thought about hitting phantom spires a couple weeks ago but we're worried there would be too much snow. Anyone been there this winter? |
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Nathan Zacharias wrote: Its open. No snow. |
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The Grotto has some nice single pitch moderate cracks that would be doable in winter. |
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Thanks all! This should be more than enough to get me through the next few weekends. |
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Do any of you happen to know where I can buy a copy of the guidebook Rock Climbs of Placerville? |
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Granite arch in rancho cordova has a copy |