SLC Climbing Months

Would the first weekend of April be too early to plan a weekend out in LCC/Wasatch anywhere? Considering heading out from Texas for some climbing in either of those, possibly up on West Slabs and if that's out of the question just some multi-pitch in LCC. Based on temps it looks fine but not sure of conditions around then. Thanks!

With this winter?  You're probably ok.  Anything south facing will be in.  Actually, it's in right now.

Call IME in SLC :  Phone: (801) 484-8073

They know!

Hayden Moore wrote:

Would the first weekend of April be too early to plan a weekend out in LCC/Wasatch anywhere? Considering heading out from Texas for some climbing in either of those, possibly up on West Slabs and if that's out of the question just some multi-pitch in LCC. Based on temps it looks fine but not sure of conditions around then. Thanks!

West slabs will probably still have a lot of snow on the approach as it is north facing, but anything south facing should be good to go (unless there is some drastic change to the weather that we have been having).

Thanks guys - Ken, I climbed the West Slabs last May and yeah, tons of snow still. Not bringing crampons on that approach was a horrible mistake. Anything south facing as far as multi-pitch "alpine" goes? 

SLC would be 50/50 but southern Utah would be more like 90/10. Go do the slabs in the san rafael swell if you want some exposure. I always did the West slabs in the heat of the summer and even then got scared a few times hiking up the snow in the gulley with approach shoes.

Hayden Moore wrote:

Thanks guys - Ken, I climbed the West Slabs last May and yeah, tons of snow still. Not bringing crampons on that approach was a horrible mistake. Anything south facing as far as multi-pitch "alpine" goes? 

I can't really think of anything that I would consider "alpine" that is south facing, but there is plenty of south facing multi-pitch in LCC to keep you busy.

edit to add: with as little snow as we've had this year, you might be able to check out Bells Canyon for a bit more of an "alpine" feel.

Thank you again - much appreciated on the recommendations. We're visiting prior to a move we'll be making in late 2018/early 2019 and just want a taste of the city and a day of climbing. Enjoy the weather!

This is the spreadsheet I made to decide how to navigate my climbing gym's oddly complex membership fees for my girlfriend and I. April - June are prime for afterwork cragging!

Hayden Moore wrote:

Thank you again - much appreciated on the recommendations. We're visiting prior to a move we'll be making in late 2018/early 2019 and just want a taste of the city and a day of climbing. Enjoy the weather!

You may also be able to taste the brown air as well!

Jack - Amazing! The exact type of overly analytical shit that I'm into. Thanks for the resource. 

Be aware that early spring is when the ticks start to come out...especially in LCC.

Brian in SLC wrote:

Be aware that early spring is when the ticks start to come out...especially in LCC.

Thanks - we're lucky to have them all year in TX

My wife and I will be in Utah the March 9-17. We are thinking to ski 2 days when first get there and then a day of climbing at Mt Olympus. Following we were planning on camping and climbing at San Rafael Swell and Zion following.

Is Maple Canyon too snow filled and cold at this time to do any rock climbing? 

Any tips or must do's during our time south of SLC? This will be our first time outside of Wasatch. A perfect day for us would something along the lines of Geurt's Ridge (did this last year and had a great time). 1000 ft of fun and a couple others at San Rafael Swell are on our list. Lady Mountain, Mt. Kinesava, and some hiking at Zion. Not looking for hard climbs, just fun easy stuff to get out on the rock w/ some exposure and see the different areas through hiking / climbing. 

Thanks! 

stolo wrote:

My wife and I will be in Utah the March 9-17. We are thinking to ski 2 days when first get there and then a day of climbing at Mt Olympus. Following we were planning on camping and climbing at San Rafael Swell and Zion following.

Is Maple Canyon too snow filled and cold at this time to do any rock climbing? 

Any tips or must do's during our time south of SLC? This will be our first time outside of Wasatch. A perfect day for us would something along the lines of Geurt's Ridge (did this last year and had a great time) or West slabs at Mt Olympus. 1000 ft of fun and a couple others at San Rafael Swell are on our list. Lady Mountain, Mt. Kinesava, and some hiking at Zion. Not looking for hard climbs, just fun easy stuff to get out on the rock w/ some exposure and see the different areas through hiking / climbing. 

Thanks! 

Mt Olympus...you know its still winter, yes?  Could be snowy and wet, even with the low snowpack this year.  If that appeals, good on ya.

Maple:  winter still.  Even though the ice didn't come in much at all this winter, its, still cold and snowy there.  Not really rock climbing season there now (or into early/mid March).

Swell and Zion might be good to go.

Edit to add:  some of the lower elevation routes in LCC might be fun for you.  The Thumb.  Schoolroom.  BCC has some fun multi pitch that should be dry:  Dead Snag.  JHCOB wall.

Brian in SLC wrote:

Mt Olympus...you know its still winter, yes?  Could be snowy and wet, even with the low snowpack this year.  If that appeals, good on ya.

We did Geurt's Ridge around the same time last year and once we got on the ridge line the rock was dry. But the descent and off the ridge higher up, there was a good bit of snow, we post holed quite a bit on the way down. It was rather warm early around that time though.

Edit: Thanks for the tips on climbs!

The avalanche/rock/ice fall danger for Olympus could be super high even if it seems good to go, the approach is a super steep gully/funnel and has steep and deep snow in it until June. 

T Roper wrote:

The avalanche/rock/ice fall danger for Olympus could be super high even if it seems good to go, the approach is a super steep gully/funnel and has steep and deep snow in it until June. 

Sorry about the confusion, I thought the West Slabs were on the climbers right of Guerts. There was a large slab pretty much right off the trail coming from Pete's Rock, I assumed these were the slabs, but guess not. Thanks. 

The trail to West Slabs is nice and easy until about a 600 foot gully filled with ice/snow. I climbed it in May last year and it was pretty heinous without an axe and pons.