The Fine Line Bolt Condition

Phil all i was getting at was where was everyone when the bolting ban went into effect? people are only worried about themselves and their own self serving pursuits. why did no one think about the future when the federal government decided to close it all. Their argument was they didn't want a bunch of new bolts popping up all over the place, turning it into a sport crag. since that time more and more bolts have gone in, taking away from what it used to be to climb that crag. I have fallen on those bolts and lived. would i like new ones, yes. do I want more, no. If you would like to get involved please do so by contacting the Access Fund or Southern Idaho Climbing Coalition. Unfortunately talking on MP or SP will not fix anything.

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:Phil all i was getting at was where was everyone when the bolting ban went into effect? people are only worried about themselves and their own self serving pursuits. why did no one think about the future when the federal government decided to close it all. Their argument was they didn't want a bunch of new bolts popping up all over the place, turning it into a sport crag. since that time more and more bolts have gone in, taking away from what it used to be to climb that crag. I have fallen on those bolts and lived. would i like new ones, yes. do I want more, no. If you would like to get involved please do so by contacting the Access Fund or Southern Idaho Climbing Coalition. Unfortunately talking on MP or SP will not fix anything.

Ian,

I believe Greg Barnes offered to do just that (in this thread) and I think you'll find that his credentials are impeccable. safeclimbing.org/about_whoi… supertopo.com/climbers-foru… .

I don't think anyone suggested adding more bolts, just replacing old.

It has been 20 years since the original Management Plan banned fixed anchors. Maybe now actually is a good time...
climbing.com/people/fixed-a…

Here is a cool idea for a coalition: Acess Fund, ASCA, SICC, Boise Climbers Alliance (BCA).

-jw

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:If you would like to get involved please do so by contacting the Access Fund or Southern Idaho Climbing Coalition. Unfortunately talking on MP or SP will not fix anything.

Yea that's what I did... Thanks for being helpful.

Dave B. And I replaced the lead bolts on this route last summer. The anchor remains as it would have been difficult to replace. It is bottonheads, but if it’s any consolation the one buttonhead removed on the pitch was the hardest to get out, and looked to be in good shape. I backed up this anchor with some pro in a crack just to the left. This was done legally with cooperation from access fund and the forest service with help also by the ASCA.

Hard to see how there would be any issues with just going up there and replacing those bolts. The routes all get climbed multiple times a week during the season and are particularly bad, at least upon visual inspection. That they haven't failed yet is a pretty weak excuse for leaving them as is, and it seems like the majority of climbers at the perch are close to or at their limit on the first pitch of the fine line. The 2 bolts on the exit pitch are pretty cool, and those moves are far easier than P1. Replacement seems less essential up there, but those are bad enough that even taking on them is a questionable idea.

Seems like they could be replaced without any fanfare. Are there any actual climbing rangers that are insecure enough to insist on the archaic ban in this case?

Edit: seems I'm too stupid to click through to page 2. Ignore my obnoxious ignorant indignation and thanks to the replacers, awesome work.

I just said we replaced them. In reply to your idea of just going up there and replacing them I wouldnt recomend it.

Thanks Peter!  Well done. 

I’m not sure but maybe a toe in the door 

Any would-be bolt replacers should understand that any bolting (or re-bolting) within the Sawtooth Wilderness is an extremely delicate issue. To reply to Keenan's post - yes, there are very serious rangers who would cite you and bring you to court. Worse, any pirate re-bolting would endanger our current good relations with the Forest Service.