Best Crack Climbs in Joshua Tree

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

J-Tree?  Summer?  The best ones will be the ones in the shade.....

Alex Fyfe wrote:

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

Equinox!

Within that range their is a life times worth of "best cracks"!! Good luck in the summer it's a little warm then...

The ones having the most fun.

Alex Fyfe wrote:

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

Which ones did you come up with before you posted this question? Which ones looked the best in the guidebook or on MP to you? You have researched it on your own, right? Right?

Alex Fyfe wrote:

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Wow, could you narrow it down a bit for us?  

J-Tree, Red Rocks, and North Carolina....? Have you even looked for any yourself or just letting other people pick your routes? 

Hot Rocks

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105722113/hot-rocks

Imaginary voyage is a must do. Always looking for new people to climb with. I also have a guide book. Ive done multipule routes there. 

what's the best food in a supermarket? looking for food ranging from vegetables to dark meat

Soulless Ginger wrote:

what's the best food in a supermarket? looking for food ranging from vegetables to dark meat

Ribeye steak broccoli

Russ Walling wrote:

Off the top of my head-ish:

5.11+:  Living Conjunction, Hidden Arch, Spider Line, Big Bobs Big Wedge, Hyperion, Morongo Man

If BBBW is 5.11+ I will never climb 5.12 

If you can pull off J Tree 5.13 in the summer, hats off to you...

Welcome.....To almost California. 

Do not pass up going to New Jack City while traveling from LV to Josh. 

Russ has a pretty good list going....  I would add:

The Right O'Kelleys crack and the Right and Left Mel cracks....   and do not skip "Energy Crisis" ... a closed climb for totally made up BS.

Russ.... 5.10d: Perpetual Motion.......    what did something change???   I always thought that was the best 5.9 in the park.

As you can tell, most people skip climbing in Josh during the summertime. With so many great places to climb at during the summer I too wonder why some choose to suffer and sweat it out.

You will find that the Sierra East side is not a bad drive.... Look up Cardinal Pinnacle... and also "the Whale/Bony Fingers" at Whitney Portal. 

Have fun 

Might be a dumb question but are there any cracks with TR setups or bolts? Dont have a rack but would love to get some vertical crack climbing as opposed to just bouldering. 

Domenic Contrino wrote: Might be a dumb question but are there any cracks with TR setups or bolts? Dont have a rack but would love to get some vertical crack climbing as opposed to just bouldering. 

The right mel crack (one on the left) can be top roped and has an easy walk up/off. Cool climb, not too long but fun. 

Maneater 5.11aish only a few leads ever, but fun to.
Six Pack Crack 5.10a great lead if you like to work hard.

Do people still climb at Joshua Tree?

Here are a few more that have not been mentioned. Don't overlook routes that are graded lower than 5.9. There are many super fun routes in the 5.6-8 range. Double Cross lives up to the hype!

Ace of Spades
Pope's Crack
Ball Bearing
Prepackaged
Norwegian Wood
Dog Leg (Originally 5.8 but 5.9 in newer guidebooks)
Orphan
Climb of the Century