Getting down from a trad route

I don't know why I've been thinking about this, But how do you get down from a big climb when only using cams (and the like) on a climb without bolts at the top. You see these movies of people climbing HUGE wall with cams. However, how do you collect your gear on the way down? Hopefully that made sense! Thanks.

Jake Jones wrote:

Different ways.  Many times there's a walk off.  Take El Capitan in Yosemite for example.  Some routes or walls have established rappel stations to get down- whether they be bolted, natural (trees, slung rocks, etc) or fixed gear of some sort.  There are some areas still where there are fixed gear rap stations that consist of a variety of bolts, or fixed hexes, slung trees, etc.  Guidebooks are your friend.  If you're planning on climbing a multipitch route, do your research.  The descent is just as, if not more important than the ascent.  Don't get on something and try to tackle it without knowing how to bail safely, or without knowing the descent.

Thanks, Jake! No intentions of doing any of that...yet! I've only been climbing for about a month. Makes sense. So do you then take the same path down to collect your cams?

Also, how about on first ascent type climbs?

Sorry for all the questions, there's just so much to learn! Thanks!

They all base jump when they get to the top ;). Generally speaking, you're walking, down-climbing or scrambling down a less technical descent route. This might include leaving tat around trees or rock threads, sacrificing gear for anchors, using a bolted rap route for another route, traversing a ridge, climbing roped or unroped down easy terrain, walking on an easy hiking trail. As you can see it really depends! 

If you're asking how you get your cams back you need to realize the definition of the term "pitch" a long multi-pitch climb like you're describing is arbitrarily split up into section called pitches which might end at a natural ledge, or when the lead climber runs out of rope at which point he'll build an anchor and belay their partner (sometimes called a follower or second) the follower collects all the gear along the way and that gear is used to lead the next pitch. In this way we don't need a 3000 foot rope and 300 cams to climb El Captian. 

Michael Mancuso wrote:

Thanks, Jake! No intentions of doing any of that...yet! I've only been climbing for about a month. Makes sense. So do you then take the same path down to collect your cams?

Also, how about on first ascent type climbs?

Sorry for all the questions, there's just so much to learn! Thanks!

Michael,

Do you an experienced climber you climb with and learn from? Have you climbed outdoors yet?

Michael Mancuso wrote:

Thanks, Jake! No intentions of doing any of that...yet! I've only been climbing for about a month. Makes sense. So do you then take the same path down to collect your cams?

Also, how about on first ascent type climbs?

Sorry for all the questions, there's just so much to learn! Thanks!

The first person up, the Leader, places the cams on the way up, builds and anchor out of several pieces of gear, or a tree, or whatever.  From there they belay the second person, the Follower, up.  The follower collects the cams on the way up.  As someone already said, often they take a different route and simply walk off.  This works because they already have all the gear that the follower collected.  Other times they will rappel.  In this case either there are already stations made of bolts, webbing or a tree that they use to rappel.  If it is a first ascent, they would have to make anchors that are left in place.   

Not yet. But I'm currently taking an intro class, and plan on taking another outside when it's nicer out. 

FrankPS wrote:

Michael,

Do you an experienced climber you climb with and learn from? Have you climbed outdoors yet?

Thanks so much for all the responses! It all makes sense now!

Climbing is extremely dangerous and you will most certainly die. But before you die you’ll become homeless and estrange lovers and family members in pursuit of the high. Get out while you still can. 

I think it might be worth saying, that at least in my (reasonably) limited experience Trad climbing, the walk to the abseil (chains, bolts, whatever) or in fact the walk off (if that's possible) is sometimes the most dangerous and scary part of the climb.  After bringing up the follower and dismantling the anchor that has been built, you're unprotected.  Often, the path you take to the abseil or to the walk off is narrow and risky.  This is the time that many accidents occur; not on the actual climb, but when the actual climb has finished. I always take extreme care at this point, and if I'm down climbing at all I do it with the utmost attention and use all my climbing techniques as if I'm free soloing (which I am really).  Even though the down climb to a walk off or abseil in comparison to the climb is often very easy I do it very deliberately and slowly.

Carl Schneider wrote:

I think it might be worth saying, that at least in my (reasonably) limited experience Trad climbing, the walk to the abseil (chains, bolts, whatever) or in fact the walk off (if that's possible) is sometimes the most dangerous and scary part of the climb.  After bringing up the follower and dismantling the anchor that has been built, you're unprotected.  Often, the path you take to the abseil or to the walk off is narrow and risky.  This is the time that many accidents occur; not on the actual climb, but when the actual climb has finished. I always take extreme care at this point, and if I'm down climbing at all I do it with the utmost attention and use all my climbing techniques as if I'm free soloing (which I am really).  Even though the down climb to a walk off or abseil in comparison to the climb is often very easy I do it very deliberately and slowly.

The "actual climb" is not finished until the party is safely back on the ground.

Carl Schneider wrote:

I think it might be worth saying, that at least in my (reasonably) limited experience Trad climbing, the walk to the abseil (chains, bolts, whatever) or in fact the walk off (if that's possible) is sometimes the most dangerous and scary part of the climb.  After bringing up the follower and dismantling the anchor that has been built, you're unprotected.  Often, the path you take to the abseil or to the walk off is narrow and risky.  This is the time that many accidents occur; not on the actual climb, but when the actual climb has finished. I always take extreme care at this point, and if I'm down climbing at all I do it with the utmost attention and use all my climbing techniques as if I'm free soloing (which I am really).  Even though the down climb to a walk off or abseil in comparison to the climb is often very easy I do it very deliberately and slowly.

If the walk-off really feels that sketchy, rope up for it. You're carrying all the gear already. 

Michael.....   as others have pointed out, getting down is sometimes the most problematic part of it all.

I have left almost a complete giant rack of cams behind. 

But arriving back on the dirt in one piece is whats important after all. 

have fun

Was just thinking this as I start making objectives for the summer that include some multipitch (sport) routes. Say there's a route that's a bunch of trad pitches, no walk off, no fixed gear (say like a first ascent a la the stuff up in the Arctic Circle), no one's ever even been there before. What do? Do these guys (again thinking of the guys from say Dodo's Delight at RR11) just not mind leaving gear since they're sponsored? I can't imagine a way to get every last bit of your gear back...

Just curious!

Chris Johnson wrote:

Was just thinking this as I start making objectives for the summer that include some multipitch (sport) routes. Say there's a route that's a bunch of trad pitches, no walk off, no fixed gear (say like a first ascent a la the stuff up in the Arctic Circle), no one's ever even been there before. What do? Do these guys (again thinking of the guys from say Dodo's Delight at RR11) just not mind leaving gear since they're sponsored? I can't imagine a way to get every last bit of your gear back...

Just curious!

Some people bring a bolt kit.

Im also wondering somewhat of the same... What if its in a circumstance of getting to the top of a trad climb OR even a sport route where there is no bolts or rings for an anchor, so I set up my own. If I set up say, a few slings and a carabiner, around a tree and repel down because there is no way to hike down. Would I lose my carabiner and slings?? Basically, is there a way to retrieve ALL my gear if I was climbing a spire that had never been climbed before?? Ha Ha does that even make sense? Thanks... and sorry if this turns out to be a stupid question. 

Douglas Syrjala wrote: Im also wondering somewhat of the same... What if its in a circumstance of getting to the top of a trad climb OR even a sport route where there is no bolts or rings for an anchor, so I set up my own. If I set up say, a few slings and a carabiner, around a tree and repel down because there is no way to hike down. Would I lose my carabiner and slings?? Basically, is there a way to retrieve ALL my gear if I was climbing a spire that had never been climbed before?? Ha Ha does that even make sense? Thanks... and sorry if this turns out to be a stupid question. 

If there's no walk off or fixed gear, yeah, you may need to leave behind a sling or two and some hardware (see: 'tat'). It's also likely the last party to climb it has left some behind. It's like that old Mastercard commercial;

Em Cos wrote:

If the walk-off really feels that sketchy, rope up for it. You're carrying all the gear already. 

Yes, generally I do.

Douglas Syrjala wrote: Im also wondering somewhat of the same... What if its in a circumstance of getting to the top of a trad climb OR even a sport route where there is no bolts or rings for an anchor, so I set up my own.

 If I set up say, a few slings and a carabiner, around a tree and repel down because there is no way to hike down. Would I lose my carabiner and slings?? Basically, is there a way to retrieve ALL my gear...

... if I was climbing a spire that had never been climbed before??

Always carry a hand drill and a few bolts when you lead trad, because you never know of there's anchors at the top!

Getting down from 1st ascent technical summits leaving minimumal gear is its own art form and an advanced activity.

Generally you leave some gear behind.  Anything from knotted webbing jammed into a crack to cams.  Most often I leave a nut in a good crack or webbing tied around a tree or boulder.  How much you leave behind depends on the rock and your confidence in the gear you place. Getting down safely is of paramount importance and everything you have with you can be left behind to accomplish this goal.

I'm looking forward to trying the beal escaper tied around a tree as an opportunity to leave nothing behind preserving the first ascent experience for future parties.

There is almost always an established way down established routes.  The guidebook and mountain project will have details if the descent is not obvious.   You might need 2 ropes or walk to the descent of another climb or wall off. 

Chris Johnson wrote:

... Do these guys (again thinking of the guys from say Dodo's Delight at RR11) just not mind leaving gear since they're sponsored?...

seems like in greenland they walked off the backs of the formations.  here's the aaj article where this is mentioned.