BW Aid Biners, what's the state of the art?

Best biner for aid/general shenanigans?

Criteria:

1. Don't shift (hate that shit).

2. Large gate opening.

3. Light.

4. Cheap.

/go!

Thanks in advance for all replies. 

My favorite is the Camp Photon, the original version i.e.. cheap version.   Super light, wide gate opening and cheap.   They seem to have fixed the light gate spring that plagued earlier versions but I still have and use a bunch of those.  You can find them under $6 from time to time but I think they retail for $7

BTW, I hate all mini biners, they may be light but the small gate opening sucks and my sausage fingers can't handle them.

Expensive, but the DMM Ultra O is literally the best non-locking biner for aid. 

1. Oval so no (well, less) shift

2. Larger opening than all the other ovals (except for the Bdel ovalwire which is 1mm larger) and keynose so no snagging 

    (once you start racking angles on this puppy you'll be sold). 

3. They ain't the lightest (but they're lighter than the standard Bdel Ovals) but why you looking for lightweight biners for aid?

- According to weighmyrack.com your weight-order list of oval biners is 

• -- Bdel Ovalwire = 45g
• -- Mad Rock Oval Tech = 52g
• -- Mammut Micro Oval = 54g
• -- Kong Oval = 60g
• -- DMM Ultra O = 61g
• -- Black Diamond Oval 62g
• -- SMC Oval = 63g
• -- Camp Compact Oval = 65g
• -- Omega Pacific Oval = 65g
• -- Camp Oval XL = 66g
• -- Climb Tech Super Light Oval (lol) = 67g
• -- Rock Exotica Rocko = 67g
• -- Petzl OWall = 68g
• -- Kong Ovalone = 68g

4. They ain't cheap, around $10 (about $6-7 prodeal iirc)

Thanks for all so far.

Yea, key lock is really a criteria that I should add. Its a total bonus for all applications, imo, other than pure weight considerations.

And "light weight" is just a bonus, tbh, 'cause I will use them for everything.

Anyone out there like these:

http://www.omegapac.com/categorylist.php?secid=19

though, they look shifty....

King Tut wrote:

http://www.omegapac.com/categorylist.php?secid=19

though, they look shifty....

Everything I own that's Omega Pacific seems fine but often heavy and clunky. 

Although the SBG Tube Belay Device is Awesome for working with super thin lines in a pinch. 

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

My favorite is the Camp Photon, the original version i.e.. cheap version.   Super light, wide gate opening and cheap.   They seem to have fixed the light gate spring that plagued earlier versions but I still have and use a bunch of those.  You can find them under $6 from time to time but I think they retail for $7

BTW, I hate all mini biners, they may be light but the small gate opening sucks and my sausage fingers can't handle them.

I have some Photons but haven't tested them for shifting....do they?

King Tut wrote:

I have some Photons but haven't tested them for shifting....do they?

To be perfectly honest I haven’t really paid attention to them shifting.   I use them mostly on my protection and have been using Mammut Crag Keylocks on my aiders.   The main advantage of the Photons are weight and the main reason I use them on pro but not on my aiders.  Since the aider binders take the abuse I like the Mammut Crag, it’s more substantial and has a good wide gate opening   

Kong Helium. Discontinued.

I use the Metolius Wiregate D biners. I use two aiders on one biner so shifting is a non issue. 

I rack pins on the DMM ovals but those things are big and heavy. Luckily, most routes don’t require too many pins these days. Gone are the days when a rack of 35 pins was the standard go to rack.

Any pin or wire racking biners have to be key lock. 

Mark Hudon wrote:

Any pin or wire racking biners have to be key lock. 

Pins I agree with but I don't like a key lock for a biner full of wires, I like that they are a bit harder to get off instead of mistakenly all of the wires sliding off at once.   Thats just my preference. 

like my petzl owalls...

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Pins I agree with but I don't like a key lock for a biner full of wires, I like that they are a bit harder to get off instead of mistakenly all of the wires sliding off at once.   Thats just my preference. 

I like the idea that it forces you to focus a bit more.

Mark Hudon wrote:

I like the idea that it forces you to focus a bit more.

Focus to not drop your nuts? Hmm int.. ;)

Mark Hudon wrote:

I use the Metolius Wiregate D biners. I use two aiders on one biner so shifting is a non issue. . 

Yea, on lead not much of an issue with a fifi.....but old school clipping in with a Daisy led to those scary "pops" on a piece as the biners shifted...and no fun at belays either.

I take it you are a fan of the Petzl Connect Adjust too, Mark?

Actually, no. I had one and really wanted to like it but I couldn’t do it. I sold it and went back to my Metolius adjustable daisies. 98% of the time I’m not using them while leading anyway. I use an Alfrifi almost exclusively. Also, I’m an old school guy and I’m perfectly comfortable and efficient in a rest step position. 

Mark Hudon wrote:

sold it and went back to my Metolius adjustable daisies.

Curious why you use the Metolius brand adjustable daisies. Never heard anything good about them, so I'm sure you have a reason.

I’m used to them is pretty much it. I can grab the biner, extend and clip all in one motion. Like I said though, I use them mainly for moving about the anchor and when jugging. 

Whatever is the cheapest wiregate that's also light. I use Nano 22s on a lot of my trad gear because they are very light, cheap and one of the few small biners that are still reasonably easy to clip.

20 kN wrote:

Whatever is the cheapest wiregate that's also light. I use Nano 22s on a lot of my trad gear because they are very light, cheap and one of the few small biners that are still reasonably easy to clip.

I had 47 of these that camp replaced due to sticky gates. If you have the newer ones they’re good with about twice the snap to the gate, the old ones beware.  

I'm late to the game on this, but I also really like the DMM Ovals for my aiders. They've taken tons of abuse and the gate is still nice and smooth. Plus I like the large gate opening and nose shape for clipping gear. I use some DMM d-shape biners for my daisies (Petzl Connect Adjust)

I am interested to give the new Camp dyon biner a try.