SMC rap rings?
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looked at some SMC rap rings the other day and questioned the integrity due to multiple fissures in the ring. Anybody have experiences with them? |
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How about some more info? Looked at them on the shelf at your gear retailer? Looked at them attached to the 5 year old tat on that obscure, out of the way route that is constantly pelted by gravel sliding down from the ridge above? Those are standard fare up here in the pnw. Never had any reason to second guess one that looked like it was left within the last year or two. Edit: Also, when in doubt, replace. It's like $5 for a new fixe steel ring... |
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Not fissures. Those rings are rolled and you're seeing the edge of the Al sheet that it's made from. |
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14kn... the next time that ring looks sketchy remember it's as strong as anything on your rack |
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I am guessing you're looking at these ones: https://smcgear.com/descending-ring.html If so, those guys are hollow (or so the ones I pulled apart were) and are basically a small piece of sheet metal rolled into a circle. They are really best suited for one-time emergency use and certainly should not be installed with the intention of using them permanently. I have pull tested a few that were left on an anchor for several years and they failed at unsafe levels. If you encounter some in the field you'd be doing everyone a solid replacing them with a stainless steel rap ring from Fixe which is only about $2.25 more expensive. |
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20 kN wrote: Thats interesting 20kn. Thanks for the info. It turns out they were rolled aluminum. Did they meet UIAA standards? |
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BTW, we always leave two at an anchor. |
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Joe Lindberg wrote: There are no standards for rap rings. |
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Hey 20Kn Would you have any details on your testing of the aluminum rap rings? They are quite common on older alpine and remote climbs around here, typically doubled up. Would be interested to see your data. I have been replacing with the anodized Omega or SMC heavier rings on obscurities and SS Fixe or big quicklinks on more traveled routes. Thanks, Mark Hanna |
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M Hanna wrote: Rap ring testing: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/567352/Pull-testing-a-SMC-Rappel-Ring |
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To avoid confusion, please stop calling those rolled aluminum rings rap rings - they are descending rings. |
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Marc801 C wrote: Whats the difference? |
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Marc801 C wrote: Rap means rappelling and you descend by rappelling they are the same thing |
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Will Ryan wrote: He's being facetious. You've been trolled. |
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Marc801 C wrote: Can we call them top-roping rings instead? Except I'd never use the plural, "rings", since we never double them up on our convenience anchors. "First one up gets to the thread the rope through the ring. Then everyone gets three laps on the route." |
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Joe Lindberg wrote: Rap ring: beefy, solid, thick, 20kN https://www.rei.com/product/745608/omega-pacific-rappel-ring Descending ring: rolled aluminum, hollow, 14kN at best when new, wears very easily |
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Will Ryan wrote: Look at the images I posted. They are two very different things. Admittedly it doesn't help that newer climbers and some manufacturers or retailers use the names interchangably, but as a climber you need to know the difference. |
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Marc801 C wrote: Hi Marc: what was the circumstance for that hollow ring becoming worn like that? Is it for demonstration or is this from real-world use? |
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Just Google "worn rap rings" and see the exciting photos of the shit people rap off! |
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Jim Titt wrote: Thanks Jim...I'm presuming this was a real-world ring that was cut off and replaced? just wondering how it got worn the exact same amount 180 degrees apart. [edit]--ok i see it's an old image...still curious as to how it gets worn like that...would not think it would be worn so evenly. [edit edit]--and it appears this specific ring was worn by top-roping, not rapping...but the moral of course is don't take things on faith... |
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Please stop buying and leaving aluminum rings. I wish companies would stop making and selling them. (Here is looking at you REI) They are crap. The only excuse might be some long obscure alpine route where weight could be an issue and even there you are probably better off carrying an extra biner. |