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Mark E Dixon
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Nov 14, 2017
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
Eva Lopez is offering some finger training clinics locally. They are a little expensive. Anybody have comments about the value? First hand experience preferred! Honestly, how much is there to say that hasn't already been said?
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kenr
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Nov 14, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
Mark E Dixon wrote:Eva Lopez is offering some finger training clinics locally. They are a little expensive. Anybody have comments about the value? First hand experience preferred! Honestly, how much is there to say that hasn't already been said? Here I'll try to say something new: . . . (given the current state of scientific research on clinbing performance + strength) . . . "Whatever the "best" training method is confidently promoted now, there will be some different "best" five years from now." - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - and something old . . . Human physiology and biochemistry varies widely across the population. Therefore different training approaches and protocols work better for different people. Even now, what Eva Lopez is seeing best for mutant 5.14-15 climbers might be different from what's working now "mere 99th percentile DNA" 5.13a climbers -- -- which is different from what's working now for mere 90th percentile DNA 5.11b climbers. Ken
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Mark E Dixon
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Nov 16, 2017
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
Bumping in case anybody's been to one of her clinics and cares to comment.
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Gunkiemike
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Nov 16, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,492
I'd be impressed if anyone offering such a clinic could scale their advice equally well for a 16 y.o boulderer pushing into Vdoubledigits as they could for a 60something working 5.8s.
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Jon Frisby
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Nov 16, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 290
Gunkiemike wrote:I'd be impressed if anyone offering such a clinic could scale their advice equally well for a 16 y.o boulderer pushing into Vdoubledigits as they could for a 60something working 5.8s. I would certainly hope not. These people need two different things, not a gradation of the same
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Peter Beal
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Nov 16, 2017
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Boulder Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,825
Mark, I'm going to see if I can do a little interview with her in advance to get a sense of what's in store. Hopefully will meet up with her in CO
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John RB
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Nov 16, 2017
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Oct 2016
· Points: 159
Mark, The clinic consists of you trying to pinch your $150 as hard as you can and they try and pull it from your fingers.
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Mark E Dixon
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Dec 12, 2017
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
Did anyone attend? Any insights you'd care to share? I went climbing instead...
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DR
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Dec 13, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 973
Mark I know Nina Williams has been working with her. Maybe send her a message and see what Nina has to say.
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Tradiban
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Dec 13, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Sounds like some broken pullies waiting to happen ;)
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Peter Beal
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Dec 13, 2017
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Boulder Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,825
Mark E Dixon wrote:Did anyone attend? Any insights you'd care to share? I went climbing instead... I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon.
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aikibujin
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Dec 13, 2017
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Castle Rock, CO
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 300
Peter Beal wrote:I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon. It would be even more impressive without the crashpad!
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Mark E Dixon
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Dec 13, 2017
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
Peter Beal wrote:I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon. I knew you were wicked strong! I can't even lift my feet off the ground on the 6.
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