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Ted Pinson
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Nov 30, 2017
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Hey guys, Making my first trip to Jackson this weekend. Is it worth bringing a trad rack? I was browsing through and saw a few 3/4 star trad routes but not a lot. I like to bring a rack with me when I hit the Red, as there’s usually a few classic cracks even at the sport crags, but I don’t want to haul it around if it’s not going to get used. Is it worth bringing gear?
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rock-fencer
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Nov 30, 2017
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Columbia, SC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 265
there are a few great lines at jackson....when i lived in illinois i plugged gear almost exclusively. clipped a bolt or two as well but there is plenty of gear game
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Thomas Tukiendorf
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Dec 1, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 0
My go to crag, first trip, I'd say go light and fast. Sample what the place has to offer. Looks like stellar weather.
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Chris
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Dec 1, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 150
My favorite crag! There are a few trad routes but I agree with Thomas, start out by sampling the sport routes. There is a wide range of really great sport routes to choose from. Let me know if you want some recommendations.
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Chad Hiatt
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Dec 1, 2017
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Bozeman, Mt
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 85
That's the first place I climbed outside! 18 years ago maybe?!? It's changed a lot, but there's still some good trad lines. The approaches are short, and the cliffs are short. Bring a small rack and give yourself the option.
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Tradiban
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Dec 11, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
I don't recall getting on any trad climbs myself but I do remember a few lines available, probably pretty dirty. Did you bring the rack?
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Jcburgart
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Dec 11, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 15
100% bring a double rack.
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Michael Martzahn
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Dec 11, 2017
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 60
Dylan B. wrote:Double? That seems like serious overkill for a crag with nothing taller than 30 meters, and no splitters. Like Tradiban, I never plugged any gear on my trips to Jackson Falls; but if I were to go back planning to do so, I’d bring a light single rack up to #3. Agreed
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 11, 2017
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Tradiban wrote:I don't recall getting on any trad climbs myself but I do remember a few lines available, probably pretty dirty. Did you bring the rack? Didn’t end up bringing it. Having been, I will say a light rack would have come in handy, as (like people said) there were a few sport routes that took gear and even a few that were bizarrely runout without it (mixed climbs), considering how rare full-gear routes are down there. Never seen sandstone with so few cracks!
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James Burnes
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Dec 24, 2017
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Dix, IL
· Joined Dec 2017
· Points: 0
There are 32 gear routes listed in the last JF guidebook. Several above my ability.
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Jcburgart
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Dec 24, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 15
Since no one else seems to have actually plugged gear in Jackson recently, I'll just follow up and say a double rack to #3, extra micros and finger sized pieces. also, 30 meters is still 98 feet - which in my mind certainly warrants a double rack with extra micro cams if you plan to onsight anything. Anyway, Have Fun! Jackson is Rad!
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 24, 2017
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Yeah, I don’t remember seeing anything close to 30m. Jackson was indeed rad, very unique rock. Not a place to cut your trad teeth, though.
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