Ice Climbing with LS Makalu?
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I got a pair of LS Makalus for really cheap and I am interested in trying out ice climbing this winter. Will these be warm enough/supportive enough for ice climbing in in the Northeast? Living in VT but might be climbing in the Whites and the Dacks as well. thanks! |
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A friend of mine climbed vertical ice with Makalus. They are stiff enough how warm is, like any boot, dependent on the temps and how cold tolerant you are. |
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I used a pair my first season because I had them already. They were stiff enough and never had any issues with crampons shifting or coming off. With thick Smartwool socks my feet stayed warm enough, but I never used them below about 15 degrees F. |
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They'll be fine. Similar warmth to some newer lightweight ice boots. They do have a steel shank if I remember correctly, so it transmits the cold a bit. 15-20 degrees will likely be your comfort limit depending on how much room you have for socks. |
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Chiatt Hiatt wrote: thanks! That's what I was kinda hoping but glad to have that confirmed. Are more technical boots (LS Nepals) more supportive for standing on vertical ice or will it be the same? |
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Makalu's run wide compared to most LS boots, so they feel less supportive if you fit in a Nepal. There is some difference in stiffness, but if your run a stiff crampon then it's negligible. |
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Adam Gellman wrote: I believe Nepals are taller, and that tends to provide some added support. |
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Chiatt Hiatt wrote: I have wide feet so that is a plus. Would Grivel G12 be considered stiff? |
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Gunkiemike wrote: I have both and this is the case, the Nepals have an additional set of lace hooks at the top too. The Nepals do feel a bit stiffer in the sole as well. |
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Take a look at the Grivel Rambo 4's for a really stiff crampon. Anything with vertical steel under foot will be stiff. Flat steel connecting the front and rear is not as stiff. The Makalu is plenty stiff, so don't let crampon choice bother you too much. |
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Chiatt Hiatt wrote: cool. I actually have a pair of G12 so I'm probably just gonna see how well they work. Maybe ill upgrade to vertical points and a warmer/more supportive boot some point down the road |
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Adam Gellman wrote: It'll be fine for getting started. I used sabertooths with mine, so pretty much the same setup. Have fun and don't pull up on shitty sticks. |
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I climbed in Makalus when I was starting out (also wide feet). They worked fine, good way to get into it when you already own the boots. When I upgraded to ice specific boots, my climbing jumped a full grade or more. So that was neat. Also recommend starting on straight-shafted leashes tools (seriously). |
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Jacon wrote: Ok great. might be borrowing tools this season but whats an example of that kind of tool? just something not for mixed/steep ice or something completely straight like a mountaineering ax? |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113831859/fs-axes-crampons I realize I’m inviting hate from the Internet, which is always a dangerous move. But I promise, if you spend two years climbing in Makalus and with old school tools like this, when you finally buy modern gear you’ll be really good. Think of it like swinging bat weights before you step into the batter’s box. |
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Jacon wrote: Wow those things are pretty retro but I see the logic (and the price is tempting). Still leaves me wondering if its a good idea to buy climbing gear older than I am... |
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I had the opposite experience of most people with the Makalus. I fit fine into 45 Nepals, but the shape of the Makalu, even going up to a 46, pinched my foot so badly that it started pushing one of the metatarsal heads under the other on my left foot. I bought two pairs of them, starting at 45, which is already 1/2 size up from my normal mountain boot size. Maybe I got some non-conforming pairs though. OTOH, I did find that they climbed pretty well. |
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Ian Machen wrote: I guess is is possible to get a weird pair. Are the nepals any warmer than the makalus or are single leather boots mostly the same? |
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The Nepals should be much warmer. Makalus are uninsulated, whereas all the leather single climbing boots have some degree of insulation. |