What's going on with these SS 5pc Bolt heads?
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Never had an issue with 1/2" either. Just 3/8". I mic my bits...concur worn bits are trouble. Cheers! |
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DrRockso wrote: Power's documentation says 1/2 drill. http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/06914.pdf |
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DrRockso - I believe 1/2 inch power bolts are to be used with a 1/2 inch OR 13mm bit. "1/2 in (13mm)" is what is stamped into the expansion sleeve on the side. I tried pretty hard to find a 13mm sds masonry bit stateside and was completely unable to find one. Aside from ease of install, I figured the added diameter if anything would give me longer drill bit life - sandstone seems to wear out bits exceptionally fast. Even called up powers, since I guessed that if you were supposed to use a 13mm bit to install their bolts, they might know where to get one. Nope. Interesting to hear about re-torquing bolts. That never came up in conversations about spinners, drill bit size, etc with a couple of different powers reps. I'll have to carry up a wrench next time I'm on a route with recently placed bolts and check that out. Brian - Ah gotcha. For some reason I just assumed we were talking 1/2. I've never tried the long 3/8 iteration, but I could see that being more... temperamental. |
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I've used a 1/2" bit in Corbin Sandstone with little issue. I suspect the 13mm may help in harder stone and likely would have prevented someone pounding the ever living shit out of the bolt shown in the OP. |
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My carpenter's hammer has done that to SS bolts. Waffle hammer, as mentioned above. |
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DrRockso wrote: They are not. The sleeve says "1/2 (13mm)" but it's designed for a 1/2" hole as is stated in the manual. I've never had a problem installing them in a 1/2" hole and I install them in some very hard rock, although I havent tried the longer version. I only install the 2.75" stainless version. |
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i would think that using the slightly larger drill bit would INCREASE the chance of a spinner, particularly in soft rock, as it would be more difficult to develop the internal friction to hold the end cap in place while the bolt turns into it. i haven't ever had any problems with the 1/2 x 4-1/2 rawl/powers 5 pieces spinning, but i am really particular about trying to keep the bit from wallowing out the hole. |
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Never seemed to be a problem with the dynabolt gold (rip) or climb tech legacy (rip) which were both placed by hand (No hammering) never had a spinner with either of these bolts. Regardless it's just a suggestion for something to try if you fit into the category of people who are having a lot of problems with them. I personally won't use the SS 5 piece anymore because of problems with post placement loosening on overhung and sideways pulled bolts. Area developers have had ~10 bolts unscrew to the point of failing over the last 2 years, all a result of negligence to tighten spinners. |
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Using all types of bolts, including 5 piece, I have never had a spinner when placed in "good" rock. That being said, in soft sandstone this IS a problem. So here is a trick I learned. Tap the bolt in a bit, and then tighten a little. Repeat. Work the bolt in slowly until seated. Then finish tightening. This has worked well for me in soft choss. |
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Roy Suggett wrote: How far do you tap in before tightening a little between taps? |
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About 1/2 way. Not sure why it works...seems counter intuitive, but it has worked many times for me. |
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slim wrote: What I've seen is a smaller than spec drill bit causes the cone to smush onto the bolt threads and then not turn. Sometimes, with a soft cone material (aka stainless ha ha), the threads on the cone will get stripped by driving the shaft of the bolt through the cone in a tight hole. At least with a slightly oversize hole, if the cone is static at all in the hole, the sleeve will slide down and expand when the bolt is tightened. Which is why I measure my drill bits to make sure they're still big enough to drill a properly sized hole. You can sharpen a bit to get more life out of it, but, once you wear the sides down in diameter, you can't make it bigger... |