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Moonlight Buttress in the Winter

Original Post
Daniel Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I am looking to get on Moonlight Buttress in a few weeks, and am wondering if the Angel's Landing descent is a safe option with heavy packs. I've heard it's in the shade and can be pretty sketchy if frozen/snowed over (I've never been to Zion). Worst case scenario, is it possible rap the route?

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

You can rap the route, and recross the river. Or you can bring microspikes, and do the walk off. Zion trails in the winter tend to be snowy, and icy in the shady areas. But it's been pretty dry in Utah this fall. Weather permitting you should be ok.

D F · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 406

Yeah, but did you have a heavy pack, John?

A heavy pack on black ice without yak-trax or micro spikes could pose a real challenge in some of those spots. I recently went down that trail with an over-loaded haulbag after soloing Prodigal Sun. I had trekking poles and I was still concerned about the possibility of stumbling over the side of the ramp (dry conditions). The trail is basically a bike path, but the incline is relentless with few safe places to stop when your legs are tired and a haulbag is sliding around on your back. To the OP—depending on how much weight you're carrying down, I'd be wary and pack traction just in case.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Daniel Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

@Rob: I don't plan on rappeling the route--I was just asking if it was an option in the worst case scenario given poor weather conditions. @D-Storm and John: Thanks for the info. Appreciate it. We will probably just play it safe and bring micro spikes.

Sam Keller · · Mallorca, ES · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

The only safe option is to go bouldering.

greg t · · Chevy, Silverado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,480
Rob T wrote:...choosing to rappel the route is one of those high-impact decisions.

I'm just confused how rapping the route is considered "high-impact". The main damage to the route itself comes from the large amount of novice / beginner aid climbers. Chains can be easily replaced, sandstone can't. 

Back to the original point... I'd be more concerned with crossing the freezing cold river than the paved walk off; just be prepared for some numb toes. 

Cameron Anderson · · Ogden, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 95
greg t wrote:

I'm just confused how rapping the route is considered "high-impact". The main damage to the route itself comes from the large amount of novice / beginner aid climbers. Chains can be easily replaced, sandstone can't. 

Back to the original point... I'd be more concerned with crossing the freezing cold river than the paved walk off; just be prepared for some numb toes. 

I haven't been on Moonlight, but if you've been through any of the slot canyons in Zion, you can see how bad rope grooves can get in the soft rock. Obviously a lot of those canyons see much more traffic and have lower angle rappels, but I could see how some grooves could be forming. It doesn't really affect the integrity of the route, but it isn't pretty. I think this guy's point is just that walking off on a paved trail is close to zero added impact, and we should just use the obvious, easy way down when it really doesn't affect us that much either way.

Brad G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 2,610

When you place cams in that corner place them in deep! If you place them right on the edge the rock will break and your cam will pop. Plus it takes away from the beauty of the crack. Something that’s getting worse and worse as climbing gets more popular. Also, deep grooves have formed at the top due to hauling and rapping. You can pinch them like tufas 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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