70 meter rope for Smith Rock?

Essential? Nice to have? Needed for only a very few routes so save weight and bring a 60? I'm guessing the latter based on my perusal of the latest edition of the Watts guide.

A 60m is fine. A few routes you'll need to be careful on, but 99% of the routes can be done with a 60m.

Depends on what you're doing. Lots of multipitch routes both sport and trad are nice to have a 70 for if you are combining pitches. Especially if you are building your anchors with the rope. Usually it just ends up being a bunch of extra shit though if you are single pitching it. You need a 70 to TR karate crack and 2 ropes are needed to get off the monkey unless you've got a 90m rope. Enjoy the crowds.

Dave Holliday wrote: I assume they're no worse than Eldo or the Gunks on a nice weekend. Walking farther or climbing stuff off the beaten path usually takes care of the people problems for me.

You will do well at Smith with that attitude.

A 70m cord is an absolute must for the ultra classic "Heresy".......... You'll appreciate a 70m rope at Smith; especially on routes like 9 Gallon Buckets, Moons of Pluto, Spiderman (link the whole route in one push), etc.

Costigan wrote:A 70m cord is an absolute must for the ultra classic "Heresy".......... You'll appreciate a 70m rope at Smith; especially on routes like 9 Gallon Buckets, Moons of Pluto, Spiderman (link the whole route in one push), etc.

You don't need a 70m rope for 9 Gallon Buckets or Moons of Pluto.

But they are nice for both the Magic Light and Overboard Extensions, Headless Horseman, Karate Wall, Crossfire, Full Heinous, etc.

The weight difference shouldn't be a big deal 'cause you're just cragging.

If you already have a 60m it might not warrant an extra purchase, but I only bring a 70m rope to Smith, FWIW.

Costigan wrote:A 70m cord is an absolute must for the ultra classic "Heresy".......... You'll appreciate a 70m rope at Smith; especially on routes like 9 Gallon Buckets, Moons of Pluto, Spiderman (link the whole route in one push), etc.

Spiderman can be linked into one pitch with a 60 as well.

phillip wrote: You don't need a 70m rope for 9 Gallon Buckets or Moons of Pluto. But they are nice for both the Magic Light and Overboard Extensions, Headless Horseman, Karate Wall, Crossfire, Full Heinous, etc. The weight difference shouldn't be a big deal 'cause you're just cragging. If you already have a 60m it might not warrant an extra purchase, but I only bring a 70m rope to Smith, FWIW.

I didn't say need, I said appreciate. Both climbs are rope stretchers for a 60; but yes, a 60m rope is not a necessity.

For single pitch stuff and First Kiss, could I get away with a 50m rope?

Costigan wrote: A 70m cord is an absolute must for the ultra classic "Heresy".......... You'll appreciate a 70m rope at Smith; especially on routes like 9 Gallon Buckets, Moons of Pluto, Spiderman (link the whole route in one push), etc.

In my opinion the safest way to climb heresy is to bring an 85m rope and belay standing in the river.

Andrew Child wrote:

In my opinion the safest way to climb heresy is to bring an 85m rope and belay standing in the river.

Have any of the four posters before this actually climbed heresy..? 

+1 to Andrew...

James A wrote:

For single pitch stuff and First Kiss, could I get away with a 50m rope?

Definitely on Heresy.  Not much else though.

only pro for heresy you need is a crashpad

70m isn't required for screaming yellow zonkers or moons of pluto, but I think it definitely makes it more convenient. 

James A wrote:

For single pitch stuff and First Kiss, could I get away with a 50m rope?

You can with First Kiss if you choose to scramble up and then take the Misery Ridge Trail.

Yarp wrote: You need a 70 to TR karate crack and 2 ropes are needed to get off the monkey unless you've got a 90m rope.

You can easily TR Karate crack with a 60, (I'll concede the anchor is terribly located) but need a full 70 to TR Karate Wall or Crossfire.  You shouldn't TR Karate Crack from the upper anchor because it unnecessarily shuts down two of the most classic 5.12s in the park.

You can also descend the Monkey with a single 70 if you know where to go.

Max Tepfer wrote:

You can also descend the Monkey with a single 70 if you know where to go.

Without rapping off that tat below the springboard, or swinging into the mouth, how do you do it?  I made it to a ledge above the lowest set of anchors and below the tat, but there was no hardware to be found.  The rock on the ledge seemed plenty solid for adding another rap station, but if there is a better way, I won't entertain the thought any more.

Ryan Bowen wrote:

Without rapping off that tat below the springboard, or swinging into the mouth, how do you do it?  I made it to a ledge above the lowest set of anchors and below the tat, but there was no hardware to be found.  The rock on the ledge seemed plenty solid for adding another rap station, but if there is a better way, I won't entertain the thought any more.

Ryan, you rappel the Pioneer Route into the mouth and then from there off of two bolts on the floor to the base of the east face.  It's a bit of a rope stretcher, so you need a full 70.  See my comment here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105791048/s-monkey-face

I can't attest to the state of the hardware on the two bolts on the floor of the cave.  I left some stuff there a couple of falls ago, but because not many people use that anchor, I wouldn't be surprised if it got stripped.

Max Tepfer wrote:

Ryan, you rappel the Pioneer Route into the mouth and then from there off of two bolts on the floor to the base of the east face.  It's a bit of a rope stretcher, so you need a full 70.  See my comment here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105791048/s-monkey-face

I can't attest to the state of the hardware on the two bolts on the floor of the cave.  I left some stuff there a couple of falls ago, but because not many people use that anchor, I wouldn't be surprised if it got stripped.

Damn. a 80 meter rope would get you to the lower set of anchors from the nose boulder if you rappel towards the notch no problem, but I don't need to spend any more money just to lighten the load for the climb.  Needing a second rope (or to swing all over the place) really makes monkey face a bit tedious. I would think some fixed hardware where the tat is would be well enough received, but who knows.