Truckee Nov 18-26

Going to be in Truckee for a WFR class from November 18-26, have Thanksgiving off. I will have my fiancée and all my sport/bouldering gear, would love to be shown the must hits if possible! 

Leave your climbing gear and grab your skis, that's opening weekend! 

Current 10 day forecast is showing non-stop rain starting on the 18th. 

Well that sucks! Hadn’t seen anything more than 3 days of rain. Gym it is! And definitely no skiing in the rain haha

Eagle Falls is probably going good. Seems like a fun mid-November activity.

You could drive down to Reno and have your fill of desert sport!

So, I've got to ask, is there decent sport out in Reno? I've never seen anything all that great in the guide book. Pig Rock looks like a fun one-day. What else is out there? 

Pig's great...nice, hard climbing (though someone's been out there..."enhancing.")  Bouldering at Tommy's area...(I can't remember the name...Purgatory?) Then there are varied areas just kinda sitting out there...nothing fantastic, but if you can climb everything at Pig, you might have to head over to B-word or hope Mayhem is dry...(or go straight up from the Truckee to the chief--overhanging enough to stay dry-ish)...

The rest are ok for half days...Thomas Creek, River Rock, Dino Rock...

I am a major Reno booster, but live in the PNW now, and wish for those days of Sierra "rain"...

I’m staying in Reno at my parents, score!

Check out Doyle for bouldering, it’s about 45 min north of Reno. It’s in the Outlying Areas guidebook for Tahoe Bouldering. If it’s windy it could be unpleasant, otherwise it’s great in the winter. I prefer it over purgatory, and a shorter drive. 

If you climb 11+ then Mayhem could be fun if we’ve had a few dry days and not much snow. Big Chief is good but I’m guessing that FS06 will be closed after this week but we’ll see. Driving to the Emeralds (toward Nevada City) is only about an hour east on the 80 and if it’s been warmish and dry it’s a great sport crag(s).

All in all, I’d play it by ear...long term forecasts are hit and miss. All else fails, Mesa Rim just opened a location in town and has a nice selection of bouldering/climbing routes.

You can still reach the chief from the straight up option. Did that on a cold New Year’s Day once, but had t shirt weather in the sun. However I wouldn’t recommend this approach to anti-sufferites!

Grant, I️ do think you’d enjoy pig if you climb around 11s and up. There’s also a 10 up the hill and the pig itself has low angle easy stuff. Easy to toprope near everything there. And if you see anyone enhancing the rock, please find out who it is, if possible. 

TravisJBurke wrote:

You can still reach the chief from the straight up option. Did that on a cold New Year’s Day once, but had t shirt weather in the sun. However I wouldn’t recommend this approach to anti-sufferites!

Definitely a sufferfest. Add in the fact that you’re crossing private property and I’d say there’s other options with less of a hassle.

Tapawingo Markey wrote:

Definitely a sufferfest. Add in the fact that you’re crossing private property and I’d say there’s other options with less of a hassle.

Yeah. A family friend used to own one of those cabins. But i think you’re still allowed to walk across the bridge? Dunno. And pig is waaaaaay less hassle. 

Btw, has anybody redone ton ton since the Crux hold broke? And what do they think of grade? 

Nice, ya I was yelled at once and have since just gone elsewhere. Could’ve just caught the wrong person on the wrong day. 

Regarding the route you named. I’m not familiar with it as I haven’t seen it in the last couple guidebooks or heard folks mention it the past few years I’ve been here. 

Is Pig no longer in the new guidebooks? I need to get the newest one...long ago lost my old Lake Tahoe Carville one (if anyone randomly has one with my name and so many little comments in it, I would gladly pay to have returned!)

Ton Ton is the old Mishler 13 at Pig, but a hold broke after a climber got on it after a good soaking...last time I was in Reno, got on it to see what was up...there's now a new chipped out hold that kinda resembles the old one, but I definitely wasn't strong enough to use it or give a realistic grade...maybe come December when back down there I'll try again...

Shit man we just got dumped on, go get a few laps in at Squaw.  Dinosaur down in Carson past spooner might be dry, some good beginner sport routes down there.  Some friends and I are trying to climb this Sunday morning depending on weather.

I’m headed in, got my gear regardless. Figured a couple days at Mesa Rim wouldn’t be too shabby if anything. 

Dumped is a little bit of s stretch, just drove by big chief and the main wall - south is dry, not sure on the road status. 7500 and up got good snow but many of the crags are lower than this. It’s the potential rain next Wed that might hold you back (for skiing and climbing).  Also, Doyle would still be good to go depending on if that rain pushes over the crest and is a great winter bouldering area.

True, but Squaw is open so I'm not complaining! I might be at Mesa on Sunday, look for the bright blue rope and feel free to say hi.

Also looking for partners thanksgiving through the weekend, probably for donner and big chief but could venture further as well! 

Road to Big Chief has some snow but was easy in my truck. Snow at the base still, some routes seeping/dripping, some dry.