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5.9 is the most difficult grade you can climb.

Original Post
Jim Schloemer · · North Bend, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 326

So I'm at the gym the other day looking at all these "hard men" and "hard women" screaming and working hard on these 5.12s and 5.13s. I don't get it. If grading starts at 5.0 and increases with difficulty, then wouldn't a 5.12 be less difficult that an 5.9, from a mathematics perspective? OUR SYSTEM IS FLAWED.

Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

You are correct!  And by next spring, they and I hope to be projecting 5.2!!!

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

JSchloem is correct.

That is why it is called the Yosemite Decimal System.

It is a decimal system, invented in Yosemite.

Dylan Levar · · Free as the breeze · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 857

think of it like 5, 10

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 145

Thinly veiled attempt at starting a "viral post."  Good luck. :\

Benjamin Schneider · · South Hamlintownburg, NH · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 75

Call me when you're climbing 6.0's kid

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 6

Yes, you are correct.  From now on we should fix the YDS to make more sense.  So 5.10a is 5.91, .10b is 5.92, and so on.  

Thank you for correcting the mistake, brave climbing friend.

Mark Says · · Basalt, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 395

pedantic

[puh-dan-tik]

adjective

  1. ostentatious in one's learning.
  2. overly concerned with minute details or formalisms, especially in teaching.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
JSchloem wrote:

So I'm at the gym the other day looking at all these "hard men" and "hard women" screaming and working hard on these 5.12s and 5.13s. I don't get it. If grading starts at 5.0 and increases with difficulty, then wouldn't a 5.12 be less difficult that an 5.9, from a mathematics perspective? OUR SYSTEM IS FLAWED.

What makes you think the YDS is mathematics based?

Alex McKenzie · · Nevada city, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 2,664
Marc801 C wrote:

What makes you think the YDS is mathematics based?

Well, there's also stuff like 1.4, 2.7, 3'6, 4.4, or whatever. All the lower classes are mathematics based

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Alex McKenzie wrote:

Well, there's also stuff like 1.4, 2.7, 3'6, 4.4, or whatever. All the lower classes are mathematics based

What???

chris blatchley · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

guys, this is clearly a joke thread. seriously, some people just don't detect it I guess.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Mark Says · · Basalt, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 395
Chris Blatchley wrote:

Page 5, Paragraph 2, Sub-paragraph 8; all items posted to the forum must be genuine and deliberate in nature.

I would hope it's not a joke, that would be a serious infraction of the rules.

Kees van der Heiden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 40
John Wilder wrote:

Well, it is the Yosemite Decimal System, but it was not invented in Yosemite.

It's not even Decimal. Are we sure it's a System?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Kees van der Heiden wrote:

It's not even Decimal. Are we sure it's a System?

It's the Tahquitz definition of decimal that is now known as Yosemite decimal. The conversion factor is 1.629632 : 0.985

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
John Wilder wrote:

Well, it is the Yosemite Decimal System, but it was not invented in Yosemite.

I know for a fact that John Muir was in Yosemite when he invented it.

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240
Marcus wrote:

Extracted from the MountainProject Terms of Use:

Page 5, Paragraph 2, Sub-paragraph 8; all items posted to the forum must be genuine and deliberate in nature.

I would hope it's not a joke, that would be a serious infraction of the rules.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Chris Blatchley wrote:

guys, this is clearly a joke thread. seriously, some people just don't detect it I guess.

Chris, all the responses are clearly jokes in a joke thread. You just don't detect it I guess. 

Oh. Wait. Your reply was clearly a joke in a joke thread. 

This meta joking is getting almost as confusing as the SDY.

Nate D · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 950
JSchloem wrote:

So I'm at the gym the other day looking at all these "hard men" and "hard women" screaming and working hard on these 5.12s and 5.13s. I don't get it. If grading starts at 5.0 and increases with difficulty, then wouldn't a 5.12 be less difficult that an 5.9, from a mathematics perspective? OUR SYSTEM IS FLAWED.

Well this is problematic because the mathematically correct system allows for infinite refinement of the data set on the Z axis, rather than only allowing grade expansion in a linear manner.  

Fo example; 5.11673 would be slightly harder than 5.11672.  

This open ended system would only further encourage micro aggression, not to mention how everyone gets a trophy these days.  It would open up the world of petty grade debates to more than just the cutting edge of climbers.  Imagine, first ascent of a 5.10856329, followed by outcry over their exaggeration of the difficulty of the crux fingerlock, demanding the grade be reduced to a 5.10856327 at best.  Every climber could be the first to put up any grade of their choosing.  Even you could be the oldest climber to climb 5.10562a.  But was it really 5.10562a? How many 5.10561d routes have you climbed?

it was truly logical to go with an illogical system, thus ensuring that petty discussions over the validity and subjectivity of the newest pushes in climbing grades is limited to only the worlds most elite climbers. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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